Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Bruce Rogers - 1985
Page Views: 14,039 total · 98/month
Shared By: bbrock on Mar 23, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


142 Opinions

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Description

This beautiful route is my favorite 5.8 that I've done at T-Wall. Follows a dihedral that angles left through a bunch of blocky roofs. You can't miss it.

Location

This beautiful route is located about 150 feet to the right of the waterfall by Ruby Fruit Jungle and Sugar in the Raw. Perfect pro, perfect rock. Anchors are up and around the last corner pull.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
One of my favorite T-wall moderates. Long, clean, and roofy without being hard. A great time was had by all! Mar 23, 2007
426
426  
Sweet stuff, sometimes wet when it looks dry! Apr 1, 2007
really my favorite 5.8 at twall . a must do. great gear fun climbing. etc Dec 2, 2007
Rob Dillon  
 
Hard to walk past the perfect warmup... Mar 2, 2009
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
...except that it's wet all the time! Maybe I'm just a little bitter, but over 2 seasons of visiting the T Wall dozens of times during the winter, I never once found it dry! Mar 3, 2009
Rob Dillon  
 
It actually sucks, Nick. Wet, dirty, loose, all that stuff. The whole 'Art' fetish is just a big conspiracy of sandbaggers trying to get other people to live the horror that they suffered through. Mar 13, 2009
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
I'm sure it's awesome! Just lamenting that I never got the chance to climb it. Mar 15, 2009
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
  5.8+
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
  5.8+
classic line if you catch it in the fall. May 27, 2010
willeslinger
Golden, Colorado
  5.7+
willeslinger   Golden, Colorado
  5.7+
Whoever got that nut stuck about 20 ft below the anchors, thanks. I really appreciated the bomber gear. Sorry you lost your stopper though. Oct 13, 2010
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+
Definitely one of T-Wall's finest 5.8s! Some interesting puzzles to solve along the way. An exciting lead! Nov 20, 2010
Be sure not to wonder out onto the face. The leader did this, and I followed him through his maze of run outs between marginal gear. Stay in the corner and stay safe. Although the face would be a rather exciting lead Feb 14, 2014
Preston Sparks
Augusta, GA
Preston Sparks   Augusta, GA
I think this rivals DirtBag for the T-Wall 5.8 test piece. A couple very committing sequences. Perfect gear. Jun 2, 2014
sooo goodÂ… Jan 5, 2015
Got a Purple LInk Cam stuck on this route. Will pay for shipping if you find it. Please send a message if you recover it. thanks! Nov 23, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Parker Kempf has your linkcam. Seemed like a totally nice guy, asked us if it was ours. I think he was more than willing to give it back.
PS I am the one who removed your purple nut of Passages.

This is Parker's profile mountainproject.com/u/parke… Nov 23, 2015
Steve Marshall
Concord NH
 
Steve Marshall   Concord NH
 
get on this climb at sunset. the entire corner glows an intense orange color. a very aesthetic line.

I remember one wet finger lock as the best option somewhere near the top but there were plenty of other options around, wouldn't say it detracted from the climb in the least. May 18, 2016