Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Rob Robinson
Page Views: 7,800 total · 58/month
Shared By: chummer on Jan 13, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

My vote for the most intimidating looking single pitch of trad cimbing in the South. The hardest and best of what I consider the "Triple Crown" of T-Wall roof cracks to borrow from the bouldering competition of the same name.

Upon closer inspection bomber jams and locks are to be found but you gotta earn this one. This has probably seen less than 10 ascents since the first in '85. It's not that it's impossibly hard but it takes a little extra effort.

I'd love to know the exact number of ascents. Shipoopi was rumored to have barely missed the onsight falling at the last roof. If anyone has onsighted it I'd love to hear about it. This is a proud climb and one of Rob Robinson's finest. Get psyched.

Location

Can't miss the monster double (triple?) tiered roofs at the top of approach trail.

Protection

This climb is a logistical nightmare. Double ropes MANDATORY. When you get to the lip of the big roof clip fixed pro with second rope. Once established in the corner untie first rope. Standard rack.

Photos

426
426  
Full disclosure, have not redpointed...

The cruxes aren't where you'd think they'd be. You can also do the "Jerry Roberts" method in which you tie into both ends of the rope and drop the "first 1/2" after the 2nd roof no need for doubles...the midpitch anchor was pretty shoddy and not equalized as of 2/08. This climb can be wet depending on the mood of the h20 fall. Apr 13, 2008
David Draper
Chattanooga, TN
David Draper   Chattanooga, TN
There isn't supposed to be a midway anchor, that needs to go soon. Mar 19, 2012
American Dankster
Chattanooga
  5.12+
American Dankster   Chattanooga
  5.12+
2008? Are you talking about the two pitons...they ripped (one on whip). Mighty fun on two ropes. But there is some gear in the roof where you wouldn't be switching ropes anyway. (hint: try cleaning the route) Mar 22, 2012
yevquest
Southeast,US
yevquest   Southeast,US
I climbed this on one rope with just a little drag. Extending pieces and only placing a reasonable amount of gear was the key. World class route! Dec 16, 2014
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
 
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
 
Update to the Protection section on this route description:

There's no fixed gear at the lip of the big roof. At this writing, there are 3 fixed pieces in the big roof - a nut, the slung chockstone and another nut.

Boulder problem at the last mini-roof has 2 fixed nuts that held a whip yesterday. One cable looked a little rusty.

I wouldn't say using two ropes is mandatory, but I ended up using that beta. Less drag, and if you switch ropes after the mega roof it isn't too cumbersome.

Tie in, rack up, have fun :-) Mar 8, 2016