Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Arno Ilgner & Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 950 total · 7/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Feb 20, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

A little bit of face climbing leads up and left to a nice crack in a right-facing corner. Pull a small bulge using fist jams and jam up the ever narrowing crack, which for the last 10 feet open into an off-width. Anchors are slings around a tree.

Location

The corner just to the right of Molly and Rocket.

Protection

A run of cams from fingers through fists. A number 4 wc friend works well for the first crux. No OW gear needed, a bomber yellow TCU can be had right below the OW.

Photos

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426
 
426  
 
Dirt filled at the top and not much fun (3/07). Tree anchor is in decent shape from the fire though...that's the good news... Mar 19, 2007
Just to be clear, A Tension Span begins on a right-facing, left-leaning ramp about 15' right of the corner which it eventually joins. The crack at the top tends to focus the otherwise distracted. Good training for the Fishers if you're looking to head out that way. Jan 14, 2008
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Could be great with more traffic. Removed a tree branch that blocked a bit of climbing. The meat section of this climb is a hand and finger crack in a corner. What! 5 Feet of wideness at the end - which is easy. Jan 1, 2013
Jordan Simon  
 
This climb has to be one of the most enjoyable climbs I've done at Twall so far. As of Spring 2018 it is in much better condition and there are stainless anchors just left of the finish. Highly Recommend. Mar 5, 2018