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Routes in T-Wall East

A Tension Span T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abortion Contortion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ain't So Eazy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Airborne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Art T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Atom Smasher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ba'th Party Politics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bin Laden Been Fooled T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blind Date T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blood on the Rocks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Board Walk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bosom of the Rat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brazen Serpent S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Bugs From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cake Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Can O' Worms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Celestial Mechanics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changnurdle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clip and Trip T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Competitive Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Contents Under Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Corner Pockets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cota Coca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackattack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crash Position T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crazy Hooker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Creaky Tweaks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Curb Sandwich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Day's Work T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Defcon Five T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Display T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Digital Macabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirt Bag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Tell A Soul T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Rats T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exodus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exposed Aggregate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
False Alarm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family Plan , The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Farmer Roof Extension S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fear on Ice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Fill in the Blanks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Finagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Lockin' Good T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly with the Falcon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Garden, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Genesis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Gift of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Gloves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Locks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gravity Creeps T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Guardian of the Gate T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hands Across America T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
He-Man Woman Haters Club, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heaven of Animals, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hidden Assets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hold Your Horses! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of The Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry for Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I'm Late T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Pursuit of Excellence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Infinite Pursuit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Intruders in the Dust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jay Walker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let's Face It! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Line Drive T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lord of the Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love Handle T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Hatter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
March Hare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Margin Of Error T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Margin of Profit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Massive Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mean Cuisine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meeker Rat, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mirage S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Molly and Rocket T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Motor Boatin S.O.B. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Motor Booty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mrs. Socrates T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Multiple Use Area T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Lost China Doll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Myth of the Spastics T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nappy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Night Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No More Tiers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nutrasweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Open Sesame T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Paleface S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Passages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
People's Express T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinga Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plastic Toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Point of Departure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Points O' Contact T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Precious Orr T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prerequisite for Excellence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Proof of Purchase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Puppy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rape Conducive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Razor Worm T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reptile Analysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reptile Paralysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Restless Pedestrian T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruby Fruit Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sanscrit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scamper Proof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Seal Test T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shiva's Last Dance T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sly Willie Snores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Some Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Southern Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spirit of the Game T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Squatter's Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Standard Deviation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Puppies T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Steeplechase T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Steepopolis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stepping Stone T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stone Wave T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sugar in the Raw T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sun King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunday Gardening T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Slide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Surf's Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sweep, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiers for Beers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Takes a Cigarette T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Totem Pole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twistin' in the Wind S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up in Arms T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Who Needs a Thnead? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Marvin Webb - 1985
Page Views: 13,453 total, 100/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

One of the true T-Wall classics, Golden Locks may be the most popular route at the crag. Its beautiful splitter crack is instantly recognizable, and the exposure above the Tennessee River far below makes for great photo opportunities. Golden Locks may also be the most sandbagged T-Wall moderate: many leaders have been humbled by this stiff 5.8 (now given a 5.9 by the FA in his new guidebook).

It's wise to have a spotter ready for the overhanging, bouldery start; possibly the toughest move on the route. Once you get past this early crux, route-finding isn't an issue: follow the obvious hand crack straight up the cliff, pausing for a welcome rest at a shallow cave. Save some pro and energy reserves for the steeper sections toward the top.

Location

Starts in a wide section of the wall about 35' past Razor Worm; other climbs in the area include Cake Walk.

Protection

Medium to large cams; hexes could be helpful. Bolted anchor at the top (on the right face of an overhang just below the cliff top).
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Back in 2005, when DCA was the guidebook and this was 5.8+ a good friend who had climbed it said: "Yup...lots of "plus" in that climb!" Feb 27, 2017
James Dowdy
  5.8+
James Dowdy  
  5.8+
Superb in every way!
A perfect introduction to southern crack climbing...and, a must send!!! Mar 24, 2016
I was very impressed with the climbing at Tenn. Wall. My 1st time here, and was lucky to find a few climbers who offered to share the rope, as I was alone. This was my 1st climb of the season, and recovering from pneumonia, and being out of shape made it tough, at 70 years old.
Your very lucky to have such a fine cliff in the South!! Mar 17, 2016
Michael Dom
  5.8
Michael Dom  
  5.8
This is a good beginner lead. Great pro everywhere and little potential for consequences, i.e. no ledges to fall on. Dec 22, 2015
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
 
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
 
Excellent climb. I don't believe I used anything larger than a #3 c4 on it. There are a number of very good placements for medium to large nuts. The entire climb (besides the start) protected very well. Oct 23, 2014
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
If there's a line don't stand in it, there are far too many other options. However, if you happen to saunter up under this route and see no ropes hanging, no gumbies racking up at the base, harness asunder with extra Camalots... Do this route. I have never, ever found another 5.8 splitter like this, anywhere. The start is not too bad, it's a good filter and gives the route a bit of character. Mar 2, 2014
kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
  5.9
kyle howe   Knoxville, TN
  5.9
Classic route! The crux is either the first move off the ground, or at the top in the wider section below the tree - depends on who you talk with. For me, the ground move was no problem, but the day I climbed, the top portion was wet and I barely muscled through what I would consider to be the crux move at the top. A BD#3 protects well here. Whatever the crux is, use a spotter! Feb 10, 2014
First move protects with a 3 if you are nervous about the pointy rock. Abundant pro. Nov 22, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
the very first move is the crux. after that, its a walk. Oct 25, 2010
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
I was almost shut down on the overhang start. Damn that was hard. then climb up to the giant hueco, followed by an amazing hand crack. The crux seems to be at the top, or maybe I was just pumped. Jun 22, 2010
nickpoppel  
 
Great route! I hung a couple of times :(. This would be a 5.10 in Boulder Canyon. Nothing bigger that a #2 BD. I didn't find the bouldery start that hard, it is however a very sustained climb. Next time ill place less pro and fly up. A great climb to get for my first time at the T-wall, highly recommend it. Sep 29, 2009
Peter L K
Cincinnati, OH
  5.9
Peter L K   Cincinnati, OH
  5.9
I didn't use anything larger than a 3, but did use a couple TCUs for the lower section. Fun. Mar 23, 2008
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Pumpy! Take advantage of any rest stance you can find after the cave; I ran out of gas near the end. Nov 4, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Classic Tennessee Wall start. Someone once told me that the first 10 feet of T-Wall routes don't count, as far as grades go. Har har. Feb 12, 2007
Usually the six or eight assorted dogs tied off here on weekends make for a decent landing, if you come to the head of the queue. Spot! Dec 15, 2006
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Great route. The crux is definitely getting to the crack via the pumpy start with a less than appetizing landing on a pointed rock. Spotter here = good. Dec 6, 2006