Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Marvin Webb - 1985
Page Views: 14,846 total · 100/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


272 Opinions

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Description

One of the true T-Wall classics, Golden Locks may be the most popular route at the crag. Its beautiful splitter crack is instantly recognizable, and the exposure above the Tennessee River far below makes for great photo opportunities. Golden Locks may also be the most sandbagged T-Wall moderate: many leaders have been humbled by this stiff 5.8 (now given a 5.9 by the FA in his new guidebook).

It's wise to have a spotter ready for the overhanging, bouldery start; possibly the toughest move on the route. Once you get past this early crux, route-finding isn't an issue: follow the obvious hand crack straight up the cliff, pausing for a welcome rest at a shallow cave. Save some pro and energy reserves for the steeper sections toward the top.

Location

Starts in a wide section of the wall about 35' past Razor Worm; other climbs in the area include Cake Walk.

Protection

Medium to large cams; hexes could be helpful. Bolted anchor at the top (on the right face of an overhang just below the cliff top).
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Great route. The crux is definitely getting to the crack via the pumpy start with a less than appetizing landing on a pointed rock. Spotter here = good. Dec 6, 2006
Usually the six or eight assorted dogs tied off here on weekends make for a decent landing, if you come to the head of the queue. Spot! Dec 15, 2006
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Classic Tennessee Wall start. Someone once told me that the first 10 feet of T-Wall routes don't count, as far as grades go. Har har. Feb 12, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.9
Pumpy! Take advantage of any rest stance you can find after the cave; I ran out of gas near the end. Nov 4, 2007
Peter L K
Cincinnati, OH
  5.9
Peter L K   Cincinnati, OH
  5.9
I didn't use anything larger than a 3, but did use a couple TCUs for the lower section. Fun. Mar 23, 2008
nickpoppel  
 
Great route! I hung a couple of times :(. This would be a 5.10 in Boulder Canyon. Nothing bigger that a #2 BD. I didn't find the bouldery start that hard, it is however a very sustained climb. Next time ill place less pro and fly up. A great climb to get for my first time at the T-wall, highly recommend it. Sep 29, 2009
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
I was almost shut down on the overhang start. Damn that was hard. then climb up to the giant hueco, followed by an amazing hand crack. The crux seems to be at the top, or maybe I was just pumped. Jun 22, 2010
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
the very first move is the crux. after that, its a walk. Oct 25, 2010
First move protects with a 3 if you are nervous about the pointy rock. Abundant pro. Nov 22, 2011
kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
  5.9
kyle howe   Knoxville, TN
  5.9
Classic route! The crux is either the first move off the ground, or at the top in the wider section below the tree - depends on who you talk with. For me, the ground move was no problem, but the day I climbed, the top portion was wet and I barely muscled through what I would consider to be the crux move at the top. A BD#3 protects well here. Whatever the crux is, use a spotter! Feb 10, 2014
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
If there's a line don't stand in it, there are far too many other options. However, if you happen to saunter up under this route and see no ropes hanging, no gumbies racking up at the base, harness asunder with extra Camalots... Do this route. I have never, ever found another 5.8 splitter like this, anywhere. The start is not too bad, it's a good filter and gives the route a bit of character. Mar 2, 2014
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
 
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
 
Excellent climb. I don't believe I used anything larger than a #3 c4 on it. There are a number of very good placements for medium to large nuts. The entire climb (besides the start) protected very well. Oct 23, 2014
Michael Dom
  5.8
Michael Dom  
  5.8
This is a good beginner lead. Great pro everywhere and little potential for consequences, i.e. no ledges to fall on. Dec 22, 2015
I was very impressed with the climbing at Tenn. Wall. My 1st time here, and was lucky to find a few climbers who offered to share the rope, as I was alone. This was my 1st climb of the season, and recovering from pneumonia, and being out of shape made it tough, at 70 years old.
Your very lucky to have such a fine cliff in the South!! Mar 17, 2016
James Dowdy
  5.8+
James Dowdy  
  5.8+
Superb in every way!
A perfect introduction to southern crack climbing...and, a must send!!! Mar 24, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Back in 2005, when DCA was the guidebook and this was 5.8+ a good friend who had climbed it said: "Yup...lots of "plus" in that climb!" Feb 27, 2017
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This is why we rock climb!! Wear a nice soft shoe, the foot jams are perfect. Feb 26, 2018