Avg: 3.6 from 250 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Rob Robinson, Marvin Webb - 1985|
|Page Views:||13,874 total · 101/month|
|Shared By:||saxfiend on Nov 20, 2006|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough|
DescriptionOne of the true T-Wall classics, Golden Locks may be the most popular route at the crag. Its beautiful splitter crack is instantly recognizable, and the exposure above the Tennessee River far below makes for great photo opportunities. Golden Locks may also be the most sandbagged T-Wall moderate: many leaders have been humbled by this stiff 5.8 (now given a 5.9 by the FA in his new guidebook).
It's wise to have a spotter ready for the overhanging, bouldery start; possibly the toughest move on the route. Once you get past this early crux, route-finding isn't an issue: follow the obvious hand crack straight up the cliff, pausing for a welcome rest at a shallow cave. Save some pro and energy reserves for the steeper sections toward the top.