Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Forrest Gardner, Rob Robinson, 1985
Page Views: 1,857 total · 13/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

If you're a southern tradster looking to expand your horizons west of the Mississippi, you'll need to punch the clock on a few of these before you roll to the Valley.

A classic flare, with a special T-Wall touch--it's bottomless-- provides a workout you won't soon forget. Lucky for you, there's hands --tight ones-- in the back. Skip the tape and they'll go in further, but poor technique will cost you in skin. When the flare peters out into a band of choss, move right to the arete and run for the trees, or tough it out up the seam straight up for added value.

Location

The flared, hanging chimney staring you in the face as you walk past Passages, etc.

Protection

Green camalots work well in the flare. If your chalk bag extends to your elbow or you remember who Mork was, call 'em '2's.

Photos

Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Achor is gone (3/24/07) as a result of the recent fire. We had to traverse over to the anchors on sanscrit, which is not ideal. Mar 26, 2007
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
I found that there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this route. Jan 4, 2008
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
Classic. This thing is definitely a variety pack, featuring a flared chimney, a short splitter, and three different options for finishing up, all with varying levels of excitement and difficulty. The crack in the back of the flare is good .75 Camalot, so I don't know if I'd call it tight hands.

Thrutching and body jamming as effectively as possible is key to success on this route. At the roof your options are:

1.go straight up at 10+ with good but difficult to place gear

2.traverse right until you can ride the huge flake to easier ground

3.traverse up and right to the arete. Pucker up... Mar 2, 2014
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, TH
  5.10b/c
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, TH
  5.10b/c
If you're like me and suck at chimneys, the beginning will definitely be the crux. The rest, however, is great fun. Everything from hand, fingers, and face climbing. Feb 8, 2016