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Day's Work

5.10b, Trad, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.1 from 42 votes
FA: Forrest Gardner, Rob Robinson, 1985
Tennessee > Tennessee Wall > T-Wall East

Description

If you're a southern tradster looking to expand your horizons west of the Mississippi, you'll need to punch the clock on a few of these before you roll to the Valley.

A classic flare, with a special T-Wall touch--it's bottomless-- provides a workout you won't soon forget. Lucky for you, there's hands --tight ones-- in the back. Skip the tape and they'll go in further, but poor technique will cost you in skin. When the flare peters out into a band of choss, move right to the arete and run for the trees, or tough it out up the seam straight up for added value.

Location

The flared, hanging chimney staring you in the face as you walk past Passages, etc.

Protection

Green camalots work well in the flare. If your chalk bag extends to your elbow or you remember who Mork was, call 'em '2's.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Wedged in the chimney about to place some pro.  I probably over protected the chimney because I though I was moving a lot farther than I actually was.
[Hide Photo] Wedged in the chimney about to place some pro. I probably over protected the chimney because I though I was moving a lot farther than I actually was.
Getting into the thick of it right off the deck.  You can maintain a hand jam for most of the chimney, but it puts you in awkward positions either feeling like you're stuck or your feet will blow.  With a little work you can probably master the start, but for me I worked about as hard getting up this chimney as I did hiking in with all my trad gear.
[Hide Photo] Getting into the thick of it right off the deck. You can maintain a hand jam for most of the chimney, but it puts you in awkward positions either feeling like you're stuck or your feet will blow.…
I managed to fight through the chimney and am about to pull the roof.  I found the holds at the roof to be quite nice, but then again I'm more of a sport climber and crack grades seem 2 full grades harder to me.
[Hide Photo] I managed to fight through the chimney and am about to pull the roof. I found the holds at the roof to be quite nice, but then again I'm more of a sport climber and crack grades seem 2 full grades…
Jeff on Day's Work, T-Wall.
[Hide Photo] Jeff on Day's Work, T-Wall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Danny Inman
Arvada
 
[Hide Comment] Achor is gone (3/24/07) as a result of the recent fire. We had to traverse over to the anchors on sanscrit, which is not ideal. Mar 26, 2007
nbrown
WNC/Broomfield, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I found that there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this route. Jan 4, 2008
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
[Hide Comment] Classic. This thing is definitely a variety pack, featuring a flared chimney, a short splitter, and three different options for finishing up, all with varying levels of excitement and difficulty. The crack in the back of the flare is good .75 Camalot, so I don't know if I'd call it tight hands.

Thrutching and body jamming as effectively as possible is key to success on this route. At the roof your options are:

1.go straight up at 10+ with good but difficult to place gear

2.traverse right until you can ride the huge flake to easier ground

3.traverse up and right to the arete. Pucker up... Mar 2, 2014
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, TH
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] If you're like me and suck at chimneys, the beginning will definitely be the crux. The rest, however, is great fun. Everything from hand, fingers, and face climbing. Feb 8, 2016
Josh Noe
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] If you get to the giant ledge and can't find the anchors, keep climbing up on the juggy, lichen covered feature above, they're on top of it. Feb 26, 2019