Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Ordner, Roy Briton, Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 14,149 total · 96/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 18, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


231 Opinions

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Description

Beautiful rock, great pro and challenging moves make this one of the best for the grade at T-Wall. Move up a short corner to a nice ledge, then follow a long left-facing corner with the occasional overhang up to ring anchors at the top.

Location

Starts about 10' right of Multiple Use Area, not far down the trail from the Plastic Toys arete.

Protection

Small to medium gear (cams, tricams, hexes, maybe some nuts). Bolted anchors.

Photos

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
This is a great line and is one of the easier 5.8s on the cliff. After cruising this one, go try 'Dirt Bag' which is one of the harder 5.8s on the cliff. Nov 18, 2006
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8
Ah, Dirt Bag it is. I've got that one in my sights. And you're right about Prerequisite, it's one of my favorite 5.8 leads at T-Wall. Jan 16, 2007
426
 
426  
 
Bottom part (above the first mini-dihedral) is a bit loose; some larger cams (3-4) can be nice for the middle section. Mar 8, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
I somehow managed to get a yellow TCU stuck near the roof traverse on this climb about a week ago. Apparently it walked itself behind a large crystal. Good luck--the cam's yours if you can get it out. Mar 17, 2008
nickpoppel  
 
A little easy for an 5.8. Passages is way better. Still a fun route with good gear. Sep 29, 2009
BTodd  
This route and the ones next to it are great, however, the left anchor bolt for this route is loose - the bolt spins - you can try to twist it back in, but you can tug it out with your hand easily...
I don't know which organization replaces anchors at t-wall, but we should let them know, apparently they have been replacing a bunch lately... Feb 25, 2012
ChillFancy
Chattanooga, TN
ChillFancy   Chattanooga, TN
Climbed this today and anchors felt tight to hand inspection. The way these anchors are on top of the climb leads to some pretty bad rope drag for toprope. Jun 17, 2012
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
 
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
 
To whomever extended the bolt anchors with chains, thank you! The anchors are bomber. (March 2014) Mar 20, 2014
Darbley Sterway
Aspen
 
Darbley Sterway   Aspen
 
This has some fun moves. Dec 14, 2014
James Dowdy
  5.8
James Dowdy  
  5.8
Solid, classic Southern Sandstone 5.8. Mar 24, 2016
So I'm thinking to go climb this wall however I'm having a hard time finding the actual location of its can anybody heard the directions how to get to it or Hops and address of a nearby location Jan 21, 2017
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Good climb but soft for the grade. Felt like 5.7. Feb 25, 2018