Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Kyle Patrick, Buddy Baldwin, 1986
Page Views: 2,233 total · 11/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Dec 10, 2006
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Not as popular as Passages or Art, Molly and Rocket is a fine T-Wall moderate. It gets a 5.8 rating in the DCA; experienced leaders consider this an old-school rating for a somewhat tougher climb, so be solid at the grade if you're going to lead it.

You can start M&R from the top of a spiky boulder (as described in the guidebook) or from the ground next to the boulder. Casual face climbing leads to a cave about 15' up. From the cave, move up through a short chimney (crux) which narrows to a vertical crack. Continue up this crack system to the top.

Location Suggest change

Down the trail past Jay Walker and Puppy Ride, starts 10' right of Stone Wave.

Protection Suggest change

Large cams (to 5") are needed for the chimney section; the rest of the climb takes small to medium cams, tricams and nuts. Build a gear anchor near the top; to descend, topout and rap from a slung tree.