Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Kyle Patrick, Buddy Baldwin, 1986
Page Views: 1,212 total · 8/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Dec 10, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Not as popular as Passages or Art, Molly and Rocket is a fine T-Wall moderate. It gets a 5.8 rating in the DCA; experienced leaders consider this an old-school rating for a somewhat tougher climb, so be solid at the grade if you're going to lead it.

You can start M&R from the top of a spiky boulder (as described in the guidebook) or from the ground next to the boulder. Casual face climbing leads to a cave about 15' up. From the cave, move up through a short chimney (crux) which narrows to a vertical crack. Continue up this crack system to the top.

Location

Down the trail past Jay Walker and Puppy Ride, starts 10' right of Stone Wave.

Protection

Large cams (to 5") are needed for the chimney section; the rest of the climb takes small to medium cams, tricams and nuts. Build a gear anchor near the top; to descend, topout and rap from a slung tree.

Photos

WadeM
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
Fun climb. Wide section is fun with dual crack systems above. Didnt think it was bad at 5.8 Feb 4, 2013
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
  5.8+
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
  5.8+
Ring anchors up and right. Feb 5, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Great climb! One of those physical, awkward, fight-fests that offers a fine challenge. The rings are very hard to see: Sling the tree to the right and keep heading up. Way up at the last possible shelf and kinda set back from view is the hardware. The last 20 feet of climbing is sketchy and hard to protect but 5.6 or so. Nov 23, 2018