Grand Contusion
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British R
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in T-Wall East
A Tension Span T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Abortion Contortion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Accidental Oralist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Ain't So Eazy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Airborne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Art T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Atom Smasher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Ba'th Party Politics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Bin Laden Been Fooled T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Blind Date T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Blood on the Rocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Board Walk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Bosom of the Rat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Brazen Serpent S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 | |
Bugs From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Cake Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Can O' Worms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Cathedral Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Celestial Mechanics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Changnurdle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Clip and Trip T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Competitive Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Contents Under Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Corner Pockets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Cota Coca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Crackattack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Crash Position T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Crazy Hooker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Creaky Tweaks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Curb Sandwich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Day's Work T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Defcon Five T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Defender of the Crown S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Digital Display T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Digital Macabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dirt Bag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Don't Tell A Soul T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Electric Rats T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Empowerment Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Exodus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Exposed Aggregate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
False Alarm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Family Plan, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Farmer Roof Extension S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Fear on Ice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Fill in the Blanks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Finagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Finger Lockin' Good T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Fly with the Falcon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Garden, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Genesis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Gift of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Golden Gloves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Golden Locks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Grand Contusion T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R | |
Gravity Creeps T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Guardian of the Gate T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Hands Across America T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
He-Man Woman Haters Club, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Heaven of Animals, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Hidden Assets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hold Your Horses! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
House of The Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Hungry for Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
I'm Late T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
In Pursuit of Excellence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Infinite Pursuit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Intruders in the Dust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Jay Walker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Let's Face It! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Line Drive T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Lord of the Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Love Handle T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mad Hatter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
March Hare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Margin Of Error T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Margin of Profit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Massive Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Mean Cuisine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Meeker Rat, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Mirage S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Molly and Rocket T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Motor Boatin S.O.B. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Motor Booty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Mrs. Socrates T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Multiple Use Area T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
My Lost China Doll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Myth of the Spastics T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Nappy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
New Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Night Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
No More Tiers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Not Slug Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Nutrasweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Of Vice and Men T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Open Sesame T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Paleface S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Passages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
People's Express T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Pinga Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Plastic Toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Point of Departure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Points O' Contact T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Precious Orr T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Prerequisite for Excellence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Proof of Purchase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Puppy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Rape Conducive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Razor Worm T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Reptile Analysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Reptile Paralysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Restless Pedestrian T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Riddle on the Roof T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c | |
Ruby Fruit Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Sanscrit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scamper Proof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Seal Test T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Shiva's Last Dance T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Short Arm Inspection T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Slug Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Sly Willie Snores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Some Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Southern Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Spirit of the Game T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Squatter's Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Standard Deviation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Steel Puppies T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Steeplechase T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R | |
Steepopolis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Stepping Stone T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Stone Wave T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Sugar in the Raw T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Sun King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Sunday Gardening T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Super Slide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Supernova T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Surf's Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Sweep, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Three Stars from God T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Tiers for Beers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Time Takes a Cigarette T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Totem Pole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Trungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Tweeter and the Monkey Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Twistin' in the Wind S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Unknown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Up in Arms T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Who Needs a Thnead? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
FA: | Rob Robinson |
Page Views: | 134 total · 48/month |
Shared By: | Lohan on Mar 3, 2019 |
Admins: | saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough |
Description
A sort of complicated history for this route. Originally ascended by Rob Robinson starting in the corner 20 ft left of the Squatter's Rites ramp. Climb up this corner which protects well enough with small gear. Traverse right as you near the roof, until reaching a good rest at the base of a crack like feature running directly out the roof. Probably 10+ to here. Place some gear from this good stance, and then climb a long boulder problem until reaching the lip. A few moves into this sequence you can place some gear, but by the end you will be well beyond your last piece. At the lip, make a strenuous placement (or don't) and mantle onto the ledge. A great rest and easy 5.10 climbing take you to a bolted anchor directly above.
This route has a bit of controversy about whether Robinson's ascent was done with fixed gear in the roof. The route was bolted entirely at some point, with a direct start (mid 5.11) on the face rather than the corner. The bolts continue alongside what Robinson originally climbed on gear. Supposedly, the two lines are meant to be different, because the original line goes all the way left into the mantle at the lip, whereas the bolted line goes up a few moves early. Same grade either way. Regardless, you have the option to clip bolts or gear, and climb an unquestionably badass line!
This route has a bit of controversy about whether Robinson's ascent was done with fixed gear in the roof. The route was bolted entirely at some point, with a direct start (mid 5.11) on the face rather than the corner. The bolts continue alongside what Robinson originally climbed on gear. Supposedly, the two lines are meant to be different, because the original line goes all the way left into the mantle at the lip, whereas the bolted line goes up a few moves early. Same grade either way. Regardless, you have the option to clip bolts or gear, and climb an unquestionably badass line!
Protection
5 bolts, otherwise multiple small cams (green and red c3 size), maybe a couple small nuts, a .3, and a 1. This protects through the crux, if you want to protect the 5.10 finish bring more. In regards the the "R", I was hesitant to assign this since there are bolts...but IF you climb this line on gear, by the end of the crux you are well beyond your last piece, which for me was a green c3 in a horizontal a quarter of the way through the crux. Not to mention it is very possible to arrive at the lip too pumped to place your piece, in which case you are looking at quite a ride...
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