Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Rob Robinson 1986
Page Views: 1,852 total · 28/month
Shared By: Lohan on Mar 3, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

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Description Suggest change

A sort of complicated history for this route. Originally ascended by Rob Robinson starting in the corner 20 ft left of the Squatter's Rites ramp. Climb up this corner which protects well enough with small gear. Traverse right as you near the roof, until reaching a good rest at the base of a crack like feature running directly out the roof. Probably 10+ to here. Place some gear from this good stance, and then climb a long boulder problem until reaching the lip. A few moves into this sequence you can place some gear, but by the end you will be well beyond your last piece. At the lip, make a strenuous placement (or don't) and mantle onto the ledge. A great rest and easy 5.10 climbing take you to a bolted anchor directly above.

This route has a bit of controversy about whether Robinson's ascent was done with fixed gear in the roof. The route was bolted entirely at some point, with a direct start (mid 5.11) on the face rather than the corner. The bolts continue alongside what Robinson originally climbed on gear. Supposedly, the two lines are meant to be different, because the original line goes all the way left into the mantle at the lip, whereas the bolted line goes up a few moves early. Same grade either way. Regardless, you have the option to clip bolts or gear, and climb an unquestionably badass line!  

Location Suggest change

20 ft left of Squatter's Rites. Bolts are obvious 

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts, otherwise multiple small cams (green and red c3 size), maybe a couple small nuts, a .3, and a 1. This protects through the crux, if you want to protect the 5.10 finish bring more. In regards the the "R", I was hesitant to assign this since there are bolts...but IF you climb this line on gear, by the end of the crux you are well beyond your last piece, which for me was a green c3 in a horizontal a quarter of the way through the crux. Not to mention it is very possible to arrive at the lip too pumped to place your piece, in which case you are looking at quite a ride...