Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Roy Briton and Bob Ordner, 1985
Page Views: 297 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 29, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Easy climbing takes you up the corner into the cave. Finagle your way up out of the cave and into the short bombay chimney. Continue up the corner above to the roof up high. An airy traverse out left under the roof brings you to ring anchors.

There is a fair amount of hollow-sounding rock on this climb. Most of the big stuff seemed to be fairly well attached. Just pay attention and you'll be fine.

Location

A little farther down the cliff from Boardwalk, The Garden, and Corner Pockets you'll encounter a large, left-facing corner with a cave in it part way up. There are two bolted sport lines on the right wall of the corner (Brazen Serpent, Mirage). Trungle goes up the corner and ends at the left end of the roof up high.

Protection

A standard rack will do. There are placements for larger cams (#4,#5 Camalot) if you choose to bring them. Bolts with rap rings at the top.

Photos

tlacny
Atlanta
5.9-
tlacny   Atlanta
5.9-
Did this route on Sunday. The opening move above the cave is probably more in the 5.9 range than 5.8. You can put in a piece of gear to protect, but if you come off and have an inattentive belayer, you have the potential to hit the ground. Once above the semi-stemming/chimney section, the route eats gear like crazy. May 17, 2016
ccollins  
 
Great route with fun climbing. I did use several #4 Camelot’s and I am glad I’m had them but I am a pretty careful climber so who knows . The upper section looks wide yes but as said there are a lot more gear options than it appears. Super fun. Can’t believe I walked past it all these years. Well worth the time. Dec 7, 2017