Open Sesame
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.3 from 67 votes
Routes in T-Wall East
A Tension Span T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Abortion Contortion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Ain't So Eazy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Airborne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Art T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Atom Smasher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Ba'th Party Politics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Bin Laden Been Fooled T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Blind Date T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Blood on the Rocks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Board Walk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Bosom of the Rat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Brazen Serpent S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 | |
Bugs From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Cake Walk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Can O' Worms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Cathedral Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Celestial Mechanics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Changnurdle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Clip and Trip T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Competitive Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Contents Under Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Corner Pockets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Cota Coca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Crackattack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Crash Position T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Crazy Hooker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Creaky Tweaks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Curb Sandwich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Day's Work T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Defcon Five T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Digital Display T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Digital Macabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dirt Bag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Don't Tell A Soul T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Electric Rats T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Exodus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Exposed Aggregate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
False Alarm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Family Plan, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Farmer Roof Extension S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Fear on Ice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Fill in the Blanks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Finagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Finger Lockin' Good T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Fly with the Falcon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Garden, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Genesis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Gift of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Golden Gloves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Golden Locks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gravity Creeps T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Guardian of the Gate T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Hands Across America T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
He-Man Woman Haters Club, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Heaven of Animals, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Hidden Assets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hold Your Horses! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
House of The Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Hungry for Heaven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
I'm Late T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
In Pursuit of Excellence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Infinite Pursuit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Intruders in the Dust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Jay Walker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Let's Face It! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Line Drive T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Lord of the Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Love Handle T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mad Hatter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
March Hare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Margin Of Error T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Margin of Profit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Massive Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Mean Cuisine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Meeker Rat, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Mirage S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Molly and Rocket T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Motor Boatin S.O.B. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Motor Booty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Mrs. Socrates T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Multiple Use Area T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
My Lost China Doll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Myth of the Spastics T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Nappy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
New Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Night Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
No More Tiers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Nutrasweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Open Sesame T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Over the Hills and Far Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Paleface S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Passages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
People's Express T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Pinga Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Plastic Toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Point of Departure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Points O' Contact T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Precious Orr T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Prerequisite for Excellence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Proof of Purchase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Puppy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Rape Conducive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Razor Worm T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Reptile Analysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Reptile Paralysis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Restless Pedestrian T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Riddle on the Roof T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c | |
Ruby Fruit Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Sanscrit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scamper Proof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Seal Test T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Shiva's Last Dance T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Short Arm Inspection T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Slug Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Sly Willie Snores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Some Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Southern Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Spirit of the Game T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Squatter's Rites T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Standard Deviation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Steel Puppies T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Steeplechase T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R | |
Steepopolis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Stepping Stone T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Stone Wave T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Sugar in the Raw T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Sun King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Sunday Gardening T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Super Slide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Surf's Up S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Sweep, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Tiers for Beers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Time Takes a Cigarette T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Totem Pole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Trungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Tweeter and the Monkey Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Twistin' in the Wind S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Unknown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Up in Arms T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Who Needs a Thnead? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Type: | Trad, 95 ft |
FA: | Steve Goins, Rob Robinson - 1985 |
Page Views: | 3,620 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006 |
Admins: | saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough |
Description
Open Sesame gets my vote for 'T-Wall's airiest 5.8'.
Beginning with the opening jughaul through stacked flakes, and continuing over a pair of bulges, Open Sesame confronts the solid 5.8 leader with a series of stiff moves that will fill britches, at the very least, with lots of air. The rest is up to you.
Pull over the junky-looking tiers to the right of the cave and head for a pair of bottomless thin cracks below a smaller cave. Wrestling over this cave with dignity intact will be the crux for most; after this, a long, exposed crack leads to the right side of the big roof above.
Beginning with the opening jughaul through stacked flakes, and continuing over a pair of bulges, Open Sesame confronts the solid 5.8 leader with a series of stiff moves that will fill britches, at the very least, with lots of air. The rest is up to you.
Pull over the junky-looking tiers to the right of the cave and head for a pair of bottomless thin cracks below a smaller cave. Wrestling over this cave with dignity intact will be the crux for most; after this, a long, exposed crack leads to the right side of the big roof above.
Location
Pass Precious Orr, Stepping Stone etc. and continue along until the trail pops up a little set of stairs and passes beneath a jungly, low-angle section with a don't-touch-that pillar atop stacked blocks of choss. You're looking for a 15'-wide cave above the trail that has calved off a series of table-sized slabs; the route emerges from the right side of the cave and heads for the right margin of a big roof at the clifftop.
#5 wc protects top perfectly.
Bottom is a bit loose with poor pro.
Leaving cave with dignity---secret jugs abound, do not do what I did and crawl in (wanting to die). This crack eats all kind of pro.
Can reach trail with 70m. Please tie a knott if using shorter ropes. Feb 27, 2007