Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Spider's Web

Bird's Nest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Hooks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dacker Cracker T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drop, Fly, or Die T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Esthesia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eternity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
It's Only Entertainment T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jelly Arms T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Key, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycanthropia T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On The Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peace In Our Climbs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Pumpernickel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Romano's Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slim Pickins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TR T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheelin N' Dealin T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
White Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wrong again, Chalkbreath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zabba T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Steve Hendrick and Jay Philbrick, 5/80
Page Views: 7,229 total, 59/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


40 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fear and Loathing is yet another classic test piece of the Web.

The finger journey this route presents to the climber is as much a test of finger strength as it is a trial of trust. You begin immediately to the let of Mr. Rogers' on an unlikely broken wall that is protected by a couple small pieces. Boulder the first 8 feet of the route to gain a rest out right: Milk this!

Step back left and onto the face. Step up and into the otherworldly finger crack. Crank up this for about 20 to 25 feet of sustained, and cruxy, climbing trying not to think about how damn secure these jams REALLY are (there are some great, but small, feet peppered intermittently along the left wall). Slap your hands onto a large jug and rest again before finishing up the steep upper headwall on juggy 5.10 climbing.

The route ends on a spacious ledge at a shared bolt anchor with Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood.

Location

Just to the left of Mr. Rogers' is the unmistakable crack.

Protection

Carry a good selection of small gear (doubles are recommended) and a few medium pieces up to a red Camalot size.
R Dubs
San Diego, CA
 
R Dubs   San Diego, CA
 
Fully agreed that this thing is all about fighting the pump higher up! The crimps down low are strong, and have some fiddly gear, but you can fully recover before hitting the finger crack. Assuming your jam skills are dialed you can pull through it all, but it is definitely a forearm battle! If you're at the web, this thing is a must-do. Dec 4, 2013
JCM
Seattle, WA
JCM   Seattle, WA
Classic Spider's Web pump. There is a crux at the left leaning finger crack, but the crux isn't where you fall; the crux is what pumps you out so that you fall later on the 5.10a jugs at the top. Dec 11, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
Climbed this yesterday a couple of times, and despite having the initial face and crux finger crack wired, it still felt difficult. Feet felt slick in places, too! Jul 25, 2011
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
Incredible route indeed. I actually found this to be a test more of the forearm pump then finger strength. The crimps down low are really solid and positive, then up top is just holding it together on HUGE holds. Awesome. Oct 14, 2010
Rainbow Weinstock
Boulder, CO
 
Rainbow Weinstock   Boulder, CO
 
So good! The start felt exciting to protect, since you're kinda doing a boulder problem in very exposed terrain. After going up and down a few times, I found an unlikely, but bomber .75 camalot placement up and left about 10' up, right before you do the lower crux. A flared crack has a small parallel section in it. This helped my head game since I only had an RP down low to the ground. Sep 1, 2010