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Routes in Pebble Beach

Arrowhead, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Beachcomber T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Money T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blood Money S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brontosaurus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Central Scrutinizer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Environmental Impact T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Noon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ju Ju S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Physical Attraction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razorback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reserved Seating S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roaming the Halls T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Scabies S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seam, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Straight Edge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunburn T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sundance S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to ol' Kentuck T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Zambezi Plunge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Steve Petro
Page Views: 8,384 total, 76/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 1, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This is the super obvious overhanging finger crack just right of Brontosaurus. Climb up the easy gully on the left then hit the crack. A couple flared handjams lead to good fingers lead to bad fingers lead to good fingers again. All at a very steep angle.

Protection

A hand size piece at the start, a 1 camalot, and two .4's. For me anyway. I used a lot more while sussing it out but pared down once I thought I had a chance.

Photos

camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
 
Just a note, my gear list, once I was done hangdogging it:

equalized 3 & 4 camalot for an anchor off the ledge, then a .75 camalot, then two .4 camalots. This sets you up for a significant fall if you blow the final moves, but there really aren't that many other good spots to place gear from. Nov 21, 2011
JamesW  
true... Apr 9, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
That is true- it was renamed when it got freed. NBC was the name of the "aid" ascent. Apr 5, 2009
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
I believe the original name for this was "The Nazi Bitch Crack." Or something to that effect. Apr 4, 2009