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Routes in Cardinal Pinnacle

Bard-Harrington Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cardinal Sin T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cardinalidae T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack Kingdom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cucumbers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Passeri T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Passeriformes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prow, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Red Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shine or Whine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
V8 Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
West Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Gordon Wiltsie, Jay Jensen (FA, 1970's) -- Dale Bard, Bob Harrington (FFA crux pitch, 1980's) -- Peter Croft, Dayle Mazzarella (FFA entire route, 2000
Page Views: 2,800 total, 35/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 22, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the most classic climbs on the eastside. Originally an aid route, and now a stellar free climb. 4 pitches of varied jam cracks on excellent rock and great position right on the spine of the buttress. The crux pitch is an intimidating lead, but the climb can be easily toproped because it is also the best rappel route from the summit.

Pitch 1 (5.10a): Climb the first pitch of West Face

Pitch 2 (5.9): Climb most of the second pitch of the West Face, but instead of traversing right around the arete, move left on a shelf to a bolted anchor below the large overhang/roof.

Pitch 3 (5.12b): Continuous climbing up the face and featured corner leads through the overhang. The gear here is thin and sparse. (5.11b R) This leads to a stance below a beautiful splitter. The crack is mostly fingers, and jogs left in the middle. Near the end it widens into off-fingers. Fight the pump all the way to the anchors.

Pitch 4 (5.8 or 5.10d): The Bard-Harrington Finish is the choice way to end the climb, but the original finish (from back when this was an aid route) is a 5.8 crack around to the left.

To descend, rappel the route with one 70m rope.

Protection

Pro to 3"
Bring extra thin stuff for the 5.11R, and save a handful of finger size cams for the splitter afterwards.

Photos

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cdavey  
I found protecting the R section to be useless and possibly even more dangerous for you and your belayer if you were to blow it, with the exception of one decent brassy placement right around the hard moves. The crack is outrageous, awesome crack climbing with a tough little section in the middle. An intimidating lead, but totally worth it. I agree, 5.12 for sure. So much fun! Jan 18, 2017
Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
 
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
 
The crack is 5.12 for sure, definitely harder than Espresso Crack. But the gear is great, the jams are solid, and the rock is perfect. Go for it! I found good gear on the 11b R section with two small C3's and some micro stoppers, which protect the hardest moves fairly well and then it's runout over easier terrain. Best to do this one in the shade in my opinion. Jun 8, 2016
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
To me, the lower face section is the crux for sure, and definitely tricky gear. The finger crack is amazing 5.11 fingers.. can't be harder than, say, espresso crack, yeah? Jan 31, 2016
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
My friend Bernd Zeugswetter and I climbed this in June. Perfect rock climb¬ówith the exception of the funky 11ish climbing before the upper 12b portion. Bernd led the pitch very impressively, and climbed up and down the 5.11 portion several times before committing, then I followed clean. The lower portion isn't terribly hard, just weird and hard to protect since some of the flakes aren't totally solid. You CAN protect it, however. Just get creative.

The upper portion climbs like a 12b sport-climb. Charge it! Gear is solid, movement is sporty, and positioning is unparalleled. Jul 2, 2014
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
The crack on p3 is amazing, although I only toproped it. It would be a scary lead, not just for the "r" factor in the 5.11 climbing getting up to the crack, but because the climbing involves pulling straight out on some pretty friable flakes that might break, no matter how solid a climber you are.

I'm wondering, has anyone done p3 without the 5.11R start, but by doing a lower angle, unprotected left traverse from the belay of "Shadow in the Rain," which is above the roof and to the right of the Prow crack? It looks like easier climbing. Nov 4, 2011