Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Gordon Wiltsie, Jay Jensen (FA, 1970's) -- Dale Bard, Bob Harrington (FFA crux pitch, 1980's) -- Peter Croft, Dayle Mazzarella (FFA entire route, 2000
Page Views: 4,325 total · 39/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 22, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Covid-19 Access Restrictions Details

Description

This is one of the most classic climbs on the eastside. Originally an aid route, and now a stellar free climb. 4 pitches of varied jam cracks on excellent rock and great position right on the spine of the buttress. The crux pitch is an intimidating lead, but the climb can be easily toproped because it is also the best rappel route from the summit.

Pitch 1 (5.10a): Climb the first pitch of West Face

Pitch 2 (5.9): Climb most of the second pitch of the West Face, but instead of traversing right around the arete, move left on a shelf to a bolted anchor below the large overhang/roof.

Pitch 3 (5.12b): Continuous climbing up the face and featured corner leads through the overhang. The gear here is thin and sparse. (5.11b R) This leads to a stance below a beautiful splitter. The crack is mostly fingers, and jogs left in the middle. Near the end it widens into off-fingers. Fight the pump all the way to the anchors.

Pitch 4 (5.8 or 5.10d): The Bard-Harrington Finish is the choice way to end the climb, but the original finish (from back when this was an aid route) is a 5.8 crack around to the left.

To descend, rappel the route with one 70m rope.

Protection

Pro to 3"
Bring extra thin stuff for the 5.11R, and save a handful of finger size cams for the splitter afterwards.

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