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Routes in Cardinal Pinnacle
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Bard-Harrington Finish T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cardinal Sin T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cardinalidae T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crack Kingdom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cucumbers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Passeri T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Passeriformes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Prow, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Red Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shine or Whine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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V8 Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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West Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Gordon Wiltsie, Jay Jensen (FA, 1970's) -- Dale Bard, Bob Harrington (FFA crux pitch, 1980's) -- Peter Croft, Dayle Mazzarella (FFA entire route, 2000 |
| Page Views: | 2,982 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Apr 22, 2011 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Description
This is one of the most classic climbs on the eastside. Originally an aid route, and now a stellar free climb. 4 pitches of varied jam cracks on excellent rock and great position right on the spine of the buttress. The crux pitch is an intimidating lead, but the climb can be easily toproped because it is also the best rappel route from the summit.
Pitch 1 (5.10a): Climb the first pitch of West Face
Pitch 2 (5.9): Climb most of the second pitch of the West Face, but instead of traversing right around the arete, move left on a shelf to a bolted anchor below the large overhang/roof.
Pitch 3 (5.12b): Continuous climbing up the face and featured corner leads through the overhang. The gear here is thin and sparse. (5.11b R) This leads to a stance below a beautiful splitter. The crack is mostly fingers, and jogs left in the middle. Near the end it widens into off-fingers. Fight the pump all the way to the anchors.
Pitch 4 (5.8 or 5.10d): The Bard-Harrington Finish is the choice way to end the climb, but the original finish (from back when this was an aid route) is a 5.8 crack around to the left.
To descend, rappel the route with one 70m rope.
Pitch 1 (5.10a): Climb the first pitch of West Face
Pitch 2 (5.9): Climb most of the second pitch of the West Face, but instead of traversing right around the arete, move left on a shelf to a bolted anchor below the large overhang/roof.
Pitch 3 (5.12b): Continuous climbing up the face and featured corner leads through the overhang. The gear here is thin and sparse. (5.11b R) This leads to a stance below a beautiful splitter. The crack is mostly fingers, and jogs left in the middle. Near the end it widens into off-fingers. Fight the pump all the way to the anchors.
Pitch 4 (5.8 or 5.10d): The Bard-Harrington Finish is the choice way to end the climb, but the original finish (from back when this was an aid route) is a 5.8 crack around to the left.
To descend, rappel the route with one 70m rope.
Photos
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Vandalia, Appalachia
I'm wondering, has anyone done p3 without the 5.11R start, but by doing a lower angle, unprotected left traverse from the belay of "Shadow in the Rain," which is above the roof and to the right of the Prow crack? It looks like easier climbing. Nov 4, 2011
Carpinteria, CA
The upper portion climbs like a 12b sport-climb. Charge it! Gear is solid, movement is sporty, and positioning is unparalleled. Jul 2, 2014
morro bay, ca
Bishop, CA