Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches
FA: Mike Artz, Cal Swoager 1985
Page Views: 2,934 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 18, 2007
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

One of the best cracks of its grade at the NRG. It's best to pitch this thing out to reach the 30ft-high starting ledge. Most people climb up the boulders/gully feature from the left; it's not too bad but you'll still want to place a few pieces. There's also a sandbagged 12c NRG sport start on the Naz Naz, or a worthy single-bolted, PG-13 12a start up the center of the ledge feature, if you want to up the ante a little.

Once at the base of the obvious crack, pick your jaw up off the ledge and enjoy bomber NRG fingerlock/mini-jugs, with the cruxes being longer reaches between good locks. Take a nice selection of medium to large nuts, as well as small and medium-sized cams; gear is very straightforward. There are bolted anchors at a stance about ten feet below the clifftop. As I remember, you cannot rappel to the ground with a 70m rope, but it's easy for multiple people to toprope from the ledge.

Location

Locate a large ledge about 20 ft off the ground, just before a large overhang if you are heading upstream.

Protection

The main crack protects primarily with small nuts. A few of the larger sized BD micronuts are helpful. Some small cams (aliens) are also helpful. Bolted anchor.

Photos