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Routes in Middle Beauty

Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasin' the Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct Start to Chasin' the Wind T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fat Man's Folly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mononuclear Knows It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Artz, Cal Swoager 1985
Page Views: 1,891 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

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Climb the finger crack to a set of shuts. About 1/2 way up this crack, it gets harder, but only for about 10 ft. The majority of the climb is 5.10. The route climbs in a similar fashion to many of the NRG 11's, as there are bomber finger locks between reachy thin sections. This is a route you should not pass up if you are in the area and this is your grade. There are direct starts to reach the ledge: Nazz, Nazz (5.12c sport) or Gone With the Wind (5.12a trad).

Access to this route from the ledge requires climbing a first pitch. For more information on the different short routes to take to access the ledge from which this route starts, reference the Williams guidebook.


Locate a large ledge about 20 ft off the ground, just before a large overhang if you are heading upstream.


The main crack protects primarily with small nuts. A few of the larger sized BD micronuts are helpful. Some small cams (aliens) are also helpful. Bolted anchor.


Jeff McLeod
Jeff McLeod  
I can't think of many pitches anywhere that exceed this one in terms of all-around quality -- spectacular position (view of the entire gorge), amazing movement, flawless stone.

The 5.9 approach pitch is PG13 and 5.9++++++

Rack: a good selection of small to medium cams, and micronuts are a must. I would also recommend bringing a #1 (and maybe 0.75?) and #3 camalot; the #3 is very nice to put in after the first crux to build peace of mind.

There are three distinct cruxes, the first might be hard 5.10 but the other two are 5.11. This climb definitely didn't feel like "mostly 5.10." The gear is excellent if you can keep your shit together to get it in. Did I mention micronuts? Jul 3, 2016