Avg: 3.8 from 26 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Ken Nichols, Mike Heintz|
|Page Views:||5,153 total · 45/month|
|Shared By:||Jaysen Henderson on Sep 14, 2011|
Start at the base of On The Loose 5.9 , alternatively do the seldom attempted direct start called Koo Klux Ken at 12c. Work your way up to the large slanting ledge 20 feet up, place a cam (or dont) with a long sling and climb the ramp to the base of the crack and an old rusty pin. Climb the varied cack to where it tapers to fingers (crux) until you arrive at the base of a roof, rest here and break the roof diagonally up and left to the top of the block, step right 10 feet to the anchors of on the loose.
Gear: It takes everything, I liked having a #3 for the crux, but not necessary.