Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Peter Croft, 1989
Page Views: 4,344 total · 24/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 3, 2004
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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46 Opinions

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Access Issue: No new bolts. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags. Details

Description

About 4 colums left of AC Devil Dog, there is a thin crack that goes over a small roof. This is Snake Bite.

The climbing starts as 5.8 stemming then pulls the small roof (5.10-) then the crux section pulls a very thin crack for about 10 feet until larger holds present themselves.

Protection

Solid to medium pro is needed to protect the crack. Placements are pretty easy.

Photos

dean fleming
sonora ca
dean fleming   sonora ca
gear is hard to place when laybacking the last portion of the route. the crack up there is wierd too. Feb 18, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
I did this on TR, but found the finger crack so sharp and painful that I avoided using it as much as possible and used neighboring face holds instead (big decrease in difficulty). Leading this would be tough with the painful jams and fiddly gear - the crack is very weird. Nov 25, 2006
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.11a
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.11a
crux for me was also the last portion of the route in the laybacking section. Got a good stance at the bottom, placed 3 marginal pieces of gear (gear is kinda funky, crack has lots of crystals on the inside), the best of the three was a yellow alien. I tried firing to the top twice and fell twice, then made some funky moves and hit the godsend jug at the top. Sick route... deserves more stars.
Mar 16, 2009
David Urnes Johnson  
  5.11a
Two crux sections. The first a little after you are established in the finger crack after the roof, especially if you stay in the crack and don't use the sidepull on the right crack. Second, at the top where the easiest is to lieback. The fingerjams are not (too) painful. I did not use tape, but left no blood in the crack. The crack does have some small knobs inside it, but the gear is bummer! The route is well protected and super fun. Get on it! Feb 27, 2017
mpech  
i thought this climb was more fun and interesting than raw hide... wish it was longer Jun 12, 2017
Charlie Remsen
San Francisco, CA
Charlie Remsen   San Francisco, CA
So is everyone of the opinion that the climb only gets this rating if you don't stem to the right through the finger-crack crux section after the roof; using the other crack system to the right and its holds? Seems easier than 11 a/b if you stem out right, but a fair rating if you keep your feet closer to the snakebite crack, but then a bit contrived? Dec 23, 2018