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Routes in 6. The Zonkers Wall - upper level

Ace of Spades T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Firebird T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Queen of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Zonked Out T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Zonked and Screaming T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FA-Joe Cote and Bruce Kumph FFA Jim Dunn
Page Views: 3,773 total, 40/month
Shared By: matthew ritter on Apr 11, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is one of the best pitches in the northeast! Don't follow the crowds. Come climb this materpiece! Spectacular overhanging finger crack climbing to pumpy and technical crux. Jaw dropping!

Some history from the Ed Webster guidebook: "Joe Cote and Bruce Kumph aided the first ascent of the route on June 15, 1975. The first free ascent was a significant climb of the times when it was done by Jim Dunn in October of 1975."

Trust me, onsighting this crack is gonna feel significant in 2024.

Location

Woodchuck Ledge THE ZONKERS WALL

Protection

I like nuts and cams. falls are super clean.

Photos

Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
  5.11c
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
  5.11c
Incredibly fun. Clean fall and bomber gear everywhere Jul 18, 2016
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11
So so fun!!! Fingerlocks like jugs to a burly crux at the top that for me involved a rugged (but solid) fist jam. Can't wait to get back and lead this thing clean.

A couple harder sections intermixed with more solid locks and jams with good horizontals. Milk your rests and you will send. Oct 6, 2014
Richard Dana
Eugene, OR
 
Richard Dana   Eugene, OR
 
Deserves 10 stars Dec 9, 2012
M Sprague
New England
  5.11c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11c
Blackjack Crack might be useful. I haven't been on either in a while, but I remember black jack being a little wider and the face around it is much more featured, but if you ran laps on it, gradually using only smaller and smaller foot holds, I would think that would help. Zonkers is fairly steep, so you want to be able to motor along efficiently so you don't pump out. Jul 20, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
What would be some good starter cracks that would nicely progress towards this beauty? Jul 20, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Great route! Apr 12, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
An on sight of this classic is hard won for sure. Apr 12, 2010