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Routes in 30 - The Rostrum

Blind Faith T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Kauk-kulator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Le Bachar T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Face, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Notch Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Static Cling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Denny & Harding - 1962
FFA: Kauk & Yablonski - 1977
Carrigan got the final pitch Yaniro did the Alien finish
Page Views: 49,720 total, 364/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 23, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The Rostrum is a truly rad climb. Every pitch is high quality and would be sought after individual classics were they at any crag, but stacked on top of each other they create a superb and memorable challenge. The climbing is secure, well protected, and physical.

Park at the pullout along the stone wall, or just past it at a dirt pullout. Follow the trail(which begins just west of the stone wall) down past some slabs and on to an obvious rappel point on a tree. Two more raps (all with a single 60m) take you to within 25 feet of the base.

P1: Ascend a large left-facing crack/flake system to a final 5.8 squeeze chimney with a wild exit move. Belay above the maw at bolts. It helps to step left at a tree halfway up this pitch. 5.9.

P2: Three options.

1): Downclimb ten feet and traverse left to a thin crack system. This traverse is balancey with minimal hands and sloping feet. Climb back up until level with the belay, place gear (black Alien helpful) and punch it up the thin layback/fingerlock crack until it is possible to stem right to a flake at which point the climbing eases. Continue to a belay stance on blocks with a good pin. 5.11a.

2): Ascend the aforementioned left-facing flake straight up from the belay. This goes at 5.10- and is R without large gear. It appears extremely secure, however.

3): Ascend a 5.10d flare to the right of the belay. This looks less appealing than the previous options.

P3: A long pitch. Perform a difficult layback move off the belay up into the hand crack system. Climb amazing steep hands to a roof, lieback and jam up through the roof, and up yet another awesome handcrack to a final stretch of jugs that lead to the halfway ledge. Belay at a pin on the ledge. 5.10.

P4: The crux. Climb an easy ramp to a stance immediately below the pumpy but locker splitter finger crack. Up this for 25 feet to a thank-god hand jam and rest stance. It's hard to fully recover here unless you can get your knee in, but I suggest getting as much back as you can. Launch into an extremely pumpy layback flake, past a pin, for another 20 feet. The pump is cumulative but complete recovery is possible if you can pull over the top. Clip the optional anchor and traverse straight left to a right-facing wall with a steep 5.9 hand crack. Follow this up to a bolted belay. 5.11c.

P5: Two options.

1): Continue up the steep, slick right-facing corner with good jams separated by long reaches. Pull around a small roof at the top. Belay at bolts. 5.10d.

2): "The Uprising". Step right and climb the sick, overhanging hands & fists crack up the face right of the traditional line. If you climb the Uprising, it makes a lot of sense to link it into the next pitch. 5.11.

P6: Take the big cam out of the pack. Tricky face climbing right leads to a steep crack on the arete. At the top perform a difficult crack switch move to gain the 5.10 offwidth. Solid knee locks, hand stacks, and pushing of a 4.5 Camalot (#5 C4) over your head will get you to the top. I found it quite enjoyable, but others have called it the crux. There is a bolt and other small pro available on this pitch, and strong OW climbers could do without the large cam -- but since you need it for the standard final pitch (and can place it on many other pitches), you may as well bring it. Also, it makes for a truly stupendous pitch to link this OW into the next pitch -- just save your hand-size cams. Otherwise, belay at bolts. 5.10.

P7: Three options.

1) The traditional (and apparently best) line is to mantle through a bit of bird shit and then climb up to a large, fin-shaped feature that sticks straight out of the wall. Ascend the left side of this with wild jams to some great stem rests. Belay at a bolt in the alcove under the final headwall. Soft for 5.11b.

2) Supposedly it is also possible to ascend the right side of this fin at 5.10d but it doesn't seem as good.

3) There's also the "Excellent Adventure" variation but I didn't even look at it. I think that, as you climb up next to the fin, there's a finger crack out left that can be followed diagonally up to under the final headwall. 5.13?

P8: Three options.

1) The most common finish is to traverse straight right on easy ground, then up into a final 5.9 offwidth. There is a difficult (5.10+) move to gain the OW, but once you're in it it is rather easy (especially compared to the offwidth below). Your big cam will protect the first half of the crack, but be warned that if you leave it behind the rope frequently will drag the cam irretrievably into the crack. It's better to use it as long as possible, then pull it out, and gun for the top -- do not fall. Belay at a fixed anchor on a tree.

2) The Alien Finish heads straight out the roof at 5.12b. From under the roof it is possible to place a 0.75 Camalot to protect the initial moves. These involve powerful moves from a great jam to a good undercling to either a thin finger jam over the lip or a flake. The difficulties continue beyond this as you ascend twin finger cracks up the steep headwall. Eventually you must switch cracks (by some bolts) to the original finish -- it is possible to switch cracks lower down at an obvious chalked up flake. The upper part of the pitch is sustained rattley fingers -- save gear for this!

3) The original finish is just left of the Alien and is also 5.12b. I haven't climbed it and don't know too much about it, other then that you hand traverse left under the roof to access it (or do the "Excellent Adventure").

From the summit block, rap down into the notch, then do 35 feet of 5.4-5.5 up the other side to get back on the trail up to the road. It's also worth noting that if you want to only do the top half of the climb, or need to bail after the first half, passage to and from the trail and halfway ledge is possible via a short 5.6 traverse.

Protection

Double set of cams from fingers to wide hands. Include one tiny (black Alien) piece, and one large (#4.5 Camalot/#5 C4) piece. Single set of wires. Half a dozen draws & a couple slings.
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
 
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
 
I think every climber owes it to their self to experience this route. It's just that good.

The rack listed in this page's description is pretty accurate. However, next time I would bring only singles of tips-sized cams just larger than black Alien.

Cams
Singles of purple 00 C3 (Optional for 1 place on p4), green 0 C3, & red 1 C3
Doubles of yellow 2 C3 (or 0.3 C4 or equivalent) through #3 Camalot
Singles of #4 C4, & #5 C4

Nuts - used none except for building anchor atop p2
I can't remember the exact two used, but it was 2 of the 3 medium DMM offset nuts (blue 8, red 9, gray 10) (~equivalent to BD Stoppers: yellow 8, blue 9, gray 10)

Draws - 7 draws, at least 4 (maybe 5) should be extendable

Gear beta

P1 - Save a 0.4 Camalot for a crack inside the chimney; also some runners. Big cams can be used on this pitch but not crucial.

P2 - Take doubles of #3. A #4 can also be used here but you can get by without it in case you opt to leave the big cams on the ledge above p3 for later pickup.

P3 - the only pitch I thought it would be nice to have triples of hand sizes cams 2's & 3's but you can bump them along to save weight. Big cams can be used on this pitch if you brought them along.

P4 - The purple C3 was only used at the start of p4 before reaching the finger crack and it's probably fine to go without it. No big cams #4 or #5 needed. Extend pieces before and after traverse.

P5 - Can use a red C3 right off the belay, but it shifted and became fixed and we almost lost it. Two fixed pins in chimney off belay. I placed triples of 0.5 on p5 since we had an extra along in case we did the Alien Roof, but 2 will suffice.

P6 - I tried to lead the p6 OW, which was the crux of the entire route for me since I am weak at offwidth climbing, and found the single 4 & 5 to be adequate. The OW size is such that you can bump the 5 the entire way and can leave the 4 behind you as pro (deeper in the crack) anywhere it fits, and there are plenty of options deep in the crack along the way. Take a single set of cams in addition to the #4 and #5 and all the runners. Bring doubles of 0.3; a 0.3 protects the first crux move over the bulge/narrower section (my left knee did not fit here) where you can no longer stem against the right wall. Left side in seems like the way to go after the first crux bulge which you can use face holds to pull past. If you place your only red C3 right off the belay, you may want to back clean it to use it up higher to protect around the OW; there are lots of options for small gear on the lower section of the OW. This is the pitch that requires the most runners. There is a fixed piece about 10 feet above and right of the belay with a long runner on it to protect the traverse; there is also a bolt in the wide crack.

P7 - Can use a #4 here to protect the brief wide section before underclinging the giant block.

P8 - A #4 is crucial to protect the entry moves into the wide crack. Take the big gear for a walk. There is a spot to place an inverted purple C3 about 3/4 of the way up behind a small edge out right that could help keep the rope from pushing the cams into the crack if you decide to leave them placed beneath you. Sep 30, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
The last offwidth can be protected by a yellow totem after you yank that #5 out, just search for a small crack running up the right inside of the offwidth. Sep 25, 2017
This route was one of the best climbing experiences I've had. Trip report here. Nov 28, 2016
EJoe
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.11c
EJoe   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.11c
Gear beta for the alien roof:

Singles- green alien, orange metolius, BD #2
Doubles- yellow alien, BD #.5, BD #.75
Optional- blue alien, extra BD #.75, BD #3

I should point out that I switched cracks at the first bolt. You could probably drop one of your BD #.5s if switching at the second bolt. Take the optional gear if you're not expecting to float the pitch. Nov 6, 2016
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.11b
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.11b
The route was so busy that we tried to lead out the rappel route. Highly NOT RECOMMENDED. Just wait or even cross the river and hitchhike if you MUST bail. Oct 25, 2016
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
You can expect to wait in line behind some wanker noobs who are not yet ready to do the whole route in a day. It's not a recent phenomenon. Oct 18, 2016
Mei
 
Mei  
 
I uploaded a photo of a core-shot rope from another party who bailed when the leader took a fall at the flake at the bottom of P2.

The route is distinctive in that it has a ledge above 3 pitches that people can cut in. What do you guys think about cut-in etiquettes?

One Sunday, my partner and I started early. He led P3, and I arrived at the ledge a few seconds before a cut-in party. I continued on to lead P4, so they waited. We did pull away from them, but from high up, I saw another cut-in party show up. So, when the thru party who started at the base behind us both reached the ledge, they had to wait for the two cut-in parties before they could start on P4. Later I heard, they didn't top out, but I don't know the exact reason.

I felt extremely lucky with our timing because I wanted to get home in the Bay Area for the 6pm presidential debate and I made it. But this experience makes me wonder what can be expected on the route nowadays with many people only going for a part of the route. Oct 17, 2016
Josh Janes    
 
You must have been having a bad day, KN! I thought the crux was soft for 11c... But the whole route is very sustained at 11a. Lots of slippery burl and pumpy cracks of all sizes. Oct 21, 2015
20 kN

5.12- PG13
20 kN    
5.12- PG13
Maybe I was having a poor day (probably since I got up at 4 AM), but this route felt extremely hard for 11c. Maybe no single move is harder than .11c, but the route felt quite rather sustained at 5.11. Then again it does have a lot of wide crack on it, and I suck at wide crack, so.... Anyway, it is a great route and totally worth doing.

We took the 5.10"R" middle flake on P2. Mind the feet are a bit slippery. You can protect the entire flake with cams, but the flake seems if it's just suspended in thin air and it's probably only a matter of time before it drops and cleans an entire party off the wall. I would avoid taking whips on cams behind the giant flake. Oct 20, 2015
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.11c
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.11c
What an amazing route! The crux on this route, while hard, almost feels like on of the least strenuous pitches. The .10d dihedral is where the all day pump starts to set in. The start to the sixth pitch ofwidth was hard and a litte heady. Traverse a little lower than you think. The offwidth was fine with one #5 c4 and one #4 c4. I am pretty bad at offwidths and found this safe enough to slide the 5 up, even take on it once in a while. Cant wait to get back to this route. Every pitch is amazing. Sep 16, 2015
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
This climb surpasses the hype, holy hell it's good.

It's included behind a button on the top of this page, but this is the direct link to the Peregrine closures: nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/…

I wouldn't recommend two #5's. Even if you're sketched on wide pitches, you can mostly keep a running TR with a single #5 from the end of the stem.

BURY your waste DEEPLY if you're going to use the bathroom at the bottom of the raps. No excuse for the swamp of toilet paper and deuce stacks that have accumulated 15m east of the p1 start.

Description above shows the Uprising as 5.11. I think .11+ would be fair. It's not the steep/burly section below, it's the accumulation and then the sting of the off-fingers rooflet above that gets you. Traverse into it seemed heads up - better not to fall. Aug 7, 2015
It's a bummer that someone felt it was necessary to put a bolt on the P6 offwidth. Does anyone know what the deal with it is? Was it a historical bolt that was replaced or someone just too lazy to bring a 5" piece?
I replaced it - it was an old original 1/4" with Leeper. We (Jack Hoeflich and I) considered just chopping it, but not everyone had big cams at that point. We did debate about it. We decided the opposite on the single remaining 1/4" bolt along the final pitch of the Good Book. In that case the offwidth is the final pitch so if you don't bring big cams you can just rap. Nov 30, 2012
So about 3/4 of the way up the last [wide var.] pitch there's a horizontal crack out to the right. Plug a 1.5"-2.5" piece in here and clip it a bit short and it should keep the rope from shoving your big cam back in there.

That's my good deed for the day. Off to help old ladies across the street. Oct 30, 2012
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Definitely recommend taking the left option on P2. Not too hard and very good climbing. (especially compared to your alternatives...)

My experience was that extending the anchor atop the final pitch wasn't enough to keep the rope from pushing my #5 irretrievably into the crack. Doing it again, I'd pull the thing out. Oct 23, 2012
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
Such a rad climb. It's a bummer that someone felt it was necessary to put a bolt on the P6 offwidth. Does anyone know what the deal with it is? Was it a historical bolt that was replaced or someone just too lazy to bring a 5" piece? Aug 6, 2011
Pavel K
 
Pavel K  
 
the best route I have done so far. clean and varied.
good route beta above. I would say the P4 is soft at 11.c. On the other hand, I found P5 with the 10.d roof quite hard and exhausting.
The P6 OW is a lot of work but actually quite secure when pushing a #5 Camalot in front of you. Jan 6, 2011
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
You can leave the big cam in the final ow- just extend your anchor from the summit tree back to the top of the crack. Voila- the rope wont even touch the cam. Sick route- so hard! Oct 28, 2010
Excellent adventure clocks in at 13-, and there is no crux that hard. First half which is left of the 7th pitch of the Rostrum 11b is 12- until you get a squatting rest under the main roof. From there you continue up the Rostrum Roof which is rated 12d, big pulls on big finger locks. All in all a 45m pitch, which is mind blowing. A #4 camalot is useful under the roof. Oct 9, 2010
In regards to the # 4 placement on the last pitch its not a matter of the cam walking in as much as it is the rope will push the cam deep, deep, deep into the crack. The long sling won't help because of where your last piece is. The beta we got from Ted Roberts was "It don't matter whose lead it is, whoever is the least worked takes the sharp end... Get into the OW and walk that #4 as far as you can, when it doesn't fit anymore take it out. I never heard of anyone falling and you probably wouldn't die... but don't blow it you might die." I was skeptical until all of a sudden the #4 didn't fit anymore and I thought good god Ted was right and clipped the 4 to my harness.! Awesome route a must do. Jan 5, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Excellent description Josh, thanks. However, I do have one question for those of you who have done this route. I almost always carry a four foot draw with me when I trad climb for many reasons, one of which is, so that I can put it on a piece of gear (say an RP before a runout) that I want to be sure won't move. Thus, it is hard for me to understand why putting a four foot draw on a big cam wouldn't stop the rope from pushing the big cam far back into the offwidth and thus losing it. Is there something special about the orientation of this pitch that having a long draw on the big cam would not solve this problem?
Thanks.
EDIT:
Thanks Dean. What you are saying makes sense, i.e. the rope drags over the cam and literally pushes it in. Cheers. Dec 13, 2009
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
excellent description of the route Josh Janes, nothing to add, thanks Aug 31, 2009
I understand that this is a classic free route, but I wonder if anyone ever aids this for fun/practice (all clean of course). Has anyone done it recently? Aug 15, 2009
Brad G  
Can you link Blind Faith with the Uprising? Mar 3, 2009
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11c
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11c
One of the best routes I have ever done, period! What a great way to end a trip! Oct 15, 2008
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
This one is my favorite climb. Pure enjoyment. Last summer a friend and I started at 0900, and he was married in the valley chapel at 1600. Dedication.
It is possible to go straight up the crack on the first pitch rather than traversing left.

I've seen some accidents on the third pitch. That lay back is slippery, and the landing an ankle breaker.
The first pitch of blind faith is superb, but the OW above will tear you up.
The uprising is secure for someone with moderate size hands. Go high and place gear before the traverse. Then back clean the first hand sized piece or two in the crack. #3 camalots are all you need above the initial #2 section.
The last overhanging hands pitch is my favorite 11A anyplace.

A knee may fit really well before the last few tough OW moves. Mar 30, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
 
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
 
If you aren't strong on offwidths, but want to do this amazing climb, bring two #5 camalots and leap frog them. Oct 22, 2007
What is the gear for the 10- wide variation of the second pitch, if you don't want to run it out? Jan 26, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
Back in the days before this became a popular free climb, it was a fun route to learn aid climbing on. I remember starting from above, rapping (or downclimbing?) to the middle ledge, where we left our haul bag. Then you'd rap to the bottom and begin the route. By evening you'd be right at the ledge, and bivy on the great half-way ledge. The second day you'd top out, hauling the bag. Topping out over the big roof was a blast. Oct 23, 2006