Resurrection

This climb is either 5.12b A0 or 5.13d.

Approach as for The Rostrum, down the gully and rappels. From the start of the Rostrum, walk left about 150’ around the arete to a striking and intimidating stem corner with an easier looking layback 15’ farther left. This layback is pitch 1. All anchors are bolted.

P1 (5.10b, 40m): up the layback to a tree, then break right past a bolt to an anchor. Don’t stop here — this is the anchor for the stem corner. Keep going up the ramp (5.8) past another tree to a ledge and anchor.

P2 (5.11b, 30m): stem up from the ledge, placing finger-sized cams in the crack to the right. When the right splitter gets too thin, make a move to the left crack where it opens up. 2 bolts lead into the right side of the giant elevator shaft. Follow this corner until a horizontal allows you to traverse left to a stance and anchor.

P3 (5.11c, 15m): “Yosemite 5.9.” Make a slab move up and left past a bolt, then follow a crack back right and up into the bombay chimney. Some chimneying past 2 bolts brings you out of the elevator shaft onto a ledge and anchor.

P4 (5.11a, 40m): “Mad Pilot.” Go straight up from the belay about 15’, then step left around the corner and aim for a striking overhanging splitter handcrack. Some thin gear gets you into the crack, then it’s glory climbing up the hand crack to a ledge and anchor. Bring a 0.1 for the start of the crack.

P5 (5.13c or 5.12b A0, 40m): “Mystery Pitch.” make some tricky moves to gain a line of bolts. Either A0 up the bolt ladder or do some hard free climbing. Either way, free climb from the last bolt up the open book corner to an anchor next to a ledge. Bring lots (triples) of 0.2-0.3.

P6 (5.8, 10m): up a crack from the belay to a ledge, then up the right side of a pillar to a ledge and anchor. Linking P5-6 is possible but leads to rope drag/difficulty hearing your belayer, and linking P6-7 is not recommended due to how the rope runs.

P7 (5.12a, 25m): a bolt gets you off the ledge, then layback up the offwidth, using the splitter to the right for gear (lots of tiny to finger sized cams). When the corner becomes a ledge, face climb past 3 bolts and pull over the arete to an anchor on a slab.

From here, if you’re doing the 5.12a A0 version, down climb 5’ from the anchor (straight down, not the ramp to the right) then move right across the ledge to a bolt and place a few cams, to the anchor shared with the Rostrum and finish up the last three pitches of the Rostrum.

P8 (5.13d, 40m): “Whipcord.” A finger crack up and left from the anchor leads to steep bolted face climbing to an anchor on a slab. Alternatively, keep going another 10-15’ to a ledge with another anchor.

P9 (5.9+, 25m): up the wide->hands corner to the summit. Belay from highline bolts.