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Routes in 30 - The Rostrum

Blind Faith T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Kauk-kulator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Le Bachar T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Face, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Notch Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Static Cling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 82 ft
FA: Ron Kauk, John Yablonsky, 1975
Page Views: 2,745 total, 42/month
Shared By: Alexey on Aug 13, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Amazing splitter, very aesthetic line. It is overhanging, dry in light rain and hard work for every feet of it 82 ft length.
Climb started from big ledge( approach from right)
crux first 3 moves passing fingers, off-fingers and super-tight hands - to good hand jam.
Than dream hands ( yellow cam size) .
Than wide pod 4-4.5" inches wide and about two body length , which can be crux for some ( rated 10c)
If you do levitation with your right knee above left ( right side in) it can be right rating.. My knee is not big , but it was not in, I did more like calf lock and hands stacks.
After the ow pod climbing continue about 20 more feet of 5.9-5.10

Location

same approach as for Blind Faith. just before the ledge on West wall one can see perfect splitter. Approach base of the climb from right surmounting big ledge

Protection

single from yellow alien to #5 camelot.
3#2 camelots

Plus you need some gear for belayer anchor (#3, #1, 0.75)

Photos

Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Echoing question above. Crack above looks high quality. Came here to find out what it is. Nov 12, 2014
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Anyone know if this has a second pitch with anchor? The crack keeps going and looks quality. Oct 28, 2014
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
some ST discussion about this route:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Aug 13, 2012