Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 30 - The Rostrum

Blind Faith T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Kauk-kulator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Le Bachar T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Face, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Notch Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Static Cling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski, Mari Gingery (1982)
Page Views: 331 total, 21/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Aug 14, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

As you approach the base of the North Face, this will be the obvious corner just to the right of the first rappel. Lots of people have probably looked at it, but judging from the lichen, no one has climbed it in several years. Rap in to a sloping ledge with a bolted anchor at the base of the corner, then lead back out. You could also set some directionals and mini-traxion it if you wanted.

Starts with some good finger locks, then becomes really shallow and flared. Requires some "laybacking" as the name suggests. Placing pro is tricky, hard to see, and super strenuous. After pulling over onto a ledge, continue up the corner and gully on rock that is carpeted with lichen. Mantel out left at the very end to regain the ledge at the top of the rappels.

I ran a wire brush down the main corner crack, but it still needs a lot of cleaning. Most Bachar FA's have gotten their ratings upgraded in guidebooks over the years. This is one of those obscure routes, like Moongerms, which has had few repeats and still retains the "old-school" rating (5.11b in the Reid Guide). For what it's worth, this is much harder than the Kaukulator, Blind Faith, pitch 4 of N Face, Uprising, and probably even harder than the Alien Roof.

Protection

Pro to 3", mainly tips and tight fingers. Offset cams are very useful.

Photos

0 Comments