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Routes in Voodoo Dome

A Little SBC T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Emperor aka Pea Soup, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Summer Sojourn T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
White Punks on Dope T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: FFA: Tony Yaniro and Brett Maurer
Page Views: 3,028 total, 61/month
Shared By: ACassebeer on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route was described by Randy Leavitt as, "The best crack at the Needles." Despite this description, the route seems to have fallen into Needles obscurity maybe due to the difficult approach, lack of an updated guidebook, and general difficulty of the climb. However, this route inspires the imagination and those who seek it out will not be disappointed.

The Emperor is a pure granite crack climb. As are most Needles routes, it is sustained in nature. The rock is spectacular, the gear is textbook, and the position is amazing. The first pitch can be top-roped (barely) with a 60m rope, although a 70m is recommended. The climb (Pea Soup) continues for several more pitches to the top, but only the first is described here.

Location

This route is located on the south face of Voodoo Dome. The start is difficult to find and explain - perhaps this is part of the adventure. It is possible to reach the base by foot on easy terrain. Once at the base of the cliff, most will choose to rope-up and approach the climb from climber's right, although it is possible to solo easily 5th class.

Protection

Natural protection with a two-bolt rappel anchor. The anchor could use some help from anyone willing to switch out the fixed slings and biners for some chain and quick-links. To stay in character with the route I will not make any gear recommendations.
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
A good thread on Supertopo with more information, see the comments section: Supertopo Thread Nov 5, 2013
Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Jeff Gicklhorn   Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Luke: Needs equal length chains, but the bolts are ~18" apart so 5 links may be a little bit short. Definitely get up there! Nov 4, 2013
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
Does this need equal lengths chains? Uneven? 5 links ok or are the bolts far apart? Thanks!! Nov 4, 2013