Avg: 3.8 from 853 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Denny & Wilson - 1961Tom Higgins gets credit for freeing the crux in '67|
|Page Views:||80,924 total · 450/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Serenity Crack is the crux of the linkup and comprises the first three pitches of the climb. Park at the Ahwahnee (the route is visible through the trees from the vallet area in front of the lobby) and hike in to the base.
P1: If you don't like manufactured climbs, just go home! This pitch is pretty unique -- I certainly have never seen anything like it: Hundreds of blown out pin scars the size of #1 Camalots create a practical ladder up the pitch. Unfortunately, secure gear is not available for a long, long ways, and this pitch is very unnerving to climb. Not only that but it is painful on the toes. Bring a full rack and be prepared to place cams in the flaring scars and sometimes great wires up higher. Belay at bolts. 5.10a.
P2: Climb beautiful 5.10a jams to a cruxy crack switch move higher (nice to have some small wires for this). Continue up more 5.10a to a bolted belay.
P3: Steep flakes and overhanging hands leads to a beautiful, thin splitter. The crux is a section of tips jams just before the belay. 5.10d.
Romp up the large ledge system to whatever belay stance makes the most sense for starting Sons of Yesterday.
Descent: If you do not elect to continue to Sons, rap the route or, if the route is occupied, stop at the very large ledge. Walk to the east, right edge, and furthest projecting point of the ledge and locate new rap anchors. Rap using a single 70, about 4-5 raps to return to the base.