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Routes in Frontier Left

BamBam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Classic Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coffee Bean (aka Pebbles) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog Day Afternoon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Espresso Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hieroglyphics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kevin Leary (TR), Vern Clevenger (lead)
Page Views: 6,935 total, 52/month
Shared By: Jon duSaint on Dec 14, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Amazing steep thin crack.

Protection

Gear to 2", with an emphasis on .75" and below
This fingercrack is fierce. Sharp but has good locks. The business is not very long, but placing pro on the hard part is not easy. 11c seems like a fair rating. Not harder than Butterballs (not as long as sustained but sharper), and definitely not harder than Pinky Paralysis in Yosemite. I think PP is an 11d and these two 11c, with Rostrum fingercrack an 11b. But since fingercracks depend on person’s finger size this rant is useless. GREAT CLIMB, WORTH REPEATING! Dec 19, 2013
This reminds me of 'Jaws' at Mt. Woodson. E.C. is a bit longer, but not much harder.

I haven't climbed too many finger cracks like this for comparison, but I'd stick with 5.11b. The locks are insanely secure. Jul 1, 2013
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11d
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11d
A classic line. Apr 1, 2013
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Holy granite splitter batman! I mean, really, this is one cool crack! And the gear is bombproof!

Gear spray following so don't read on if you want to onsight:

You could also use a #2 or #3 camalot to protect the initial flake along with a #1 on a runner if you really wanted to then a med/lg nut in the main crack before you start pulling down. The entire main crack goes on .5 camalot/red alien/grey alien. you can also toss in a yellow alien up high and a .75 at the end if you want.

I'd say 11c is about right. The splitter is kinda short and there are .75 sized foot pods but you are fully hanging on ring and finger locks. Soooooooo good! Anyone considering should jump on this thing. May 25, 2011
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
5.11c/d
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
5.11c/d
new bolts with mussy hooks put in by me to better facilitate rope management. They are located after all of the notable climbing, but low enough so your rope does not drag like crazy over the slab. You can still reach them from the top, just wear your harness and be ready to clip in! All stainless steel too! Jul 17, 2010
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
We saw this crack from the road and hiked up and hopped on it without a guide book. My friend led it first and cruised it. I asked how hard it was and he said he wasn't sure, but thought about 5.10+, so I pulled the rope to lead it. At about the third hang I suspected I'd been sandbagged. I'd say this thing is somewhat harder than 10+ and somewhat easier than 12-. (btw he still maintains that it's 5.10+)

Oh yea, to find it scramble up some ledges to the left just after the approach trail passes an enormous boulder. It starts on a big ledge half-way up the cliff, a little left of an obvious wide-ish crack (Classic Crack). Jul 11, 2008
I want to do it too! Can I come, can I, can I? Jul 11, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
WOW! What a great looking climb!!!!!!!!

HOW DO I GET TO THE BASE? WHERE IS THIS AMAZING THING?? Jul 11, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Blitzo asks, "Brief and to the point! What more is needed?"

Man, that's RICH! Jul 11, 2008
Blitzo  
Great description! Brief and to the point! What more is needed? Jul 11, 2008
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
5.11c/d
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
5.11c/d
Awesome route! Must do! Probably about .11d. There will be extention webbing/quicklinks on top by mid June sometime to facillitate TR soloing, toproping, and lowering. [please do not steal the equipment!] May 31, 2008
Alex Shainman
  5.11c/d
Alex Shainman  
  5.11c/d
This is a great, short pitch of finger locks...Its way SHARP!! Tape your fingers because its sharpness may be the deciding factor to send or not. Probably not quite 5.12 as compared to other routes in the nearby areas (11c/d)...Not as hard as Heart Of Stone (another Clevenger route)...Better rack beta would be a 3.5 Friend in the starting flake. A good, sideways medium stopper once standing in the crack. Then, doubles of Yellow and Red Aliens to a 1.5 Friend and then another medium nut or two. Because of rope drag from the anchor its not a good TR. Walk off way to the back and around. Sep 12, 2007