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Routes in Frontier Left

BamBam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Classic Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coffee Bean (aka Pebbles) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog Day Afternoon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Espresso Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hieroglyphics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett, Bill St. Jean, Robb Dellinger 5/77
Page Views: 3,540 total, 25/month
Shared By: Wade Griffith on Apr 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

As the name suggests, a classic line. Fun steep hands up to a flaring offwidth that necks back down to hands before finishing up on a slab.

Location

The first crag you come to once the trail tops the hill has Classic Crack splitting the middle. Gain a ramp from the left side to angle up towards the base of this route passing a splitter fingers crack called Espresso crack (5.12) on your way.

Protection

Pro to 3.5"
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
for the gear anchor, there's also a BD red #1 placement in a dish with a pinching lower lip slot, located to climber's right of the crack at the top. could get away with anchoring using that and two BD blue #3's, but at least one #4 would work better. helpful to have a #4 to walk up the burly v-slot anyway, to be backcleaned to save for the topside anchor May 27, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10-
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10-
I also thought the wedged blocks are a detriment to the climb. You can't easily avoid them and there are no other placements, a problem that near to the ground. It could really fu... mess somebody's day up if any of them (especially the big boy you stand up on) comes loose.

Also, the anchor situation bears repeating: I wound up with a single 4" Camalot anchor and just stance belayed. And I only had that piece because I'd walked it up the wide and then removed it because I didn't adequately read the description to know what the anchor situation was! Additionally, rope drag was bad and I suggest slinging as much as you are comfortable since the climb is a bit devious with bulges and a bit of a gangsta lean.

Overall, a fun climb, and I think a bit of a sandbag at 5.9. Probably in the 5.10 range like the Croft/Lewis guidebook says. May 29, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
pretty cool route but you have to climb past some sketchy blocks about 25 feet off the ground that aren't easily protectable. gear anchor at the top is #3 camalot or #3.5. you can also tie off a dinner plate with a double length sling. walk off from there instead of rapping that anchor (which seemed like it would be heinous wear on the rope). May 25, 2011
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.10a
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.10a
You will need a couple 3.5"-4.5" cams for the anchor. The only bolted anchor is found way off to the left. Jun 13, 2006
Murf
  5.9
Murf  
  5.9
I expected something billed as "Classic Crack" to be, well, classic. Fun climbing n' all, but I wouldn't consider it a classic, even by area standards. May 26, 2006