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Routes in Cereal Buttress

Aunt Jemima T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Tree T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Born Again S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Call of the Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Capt Crunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doug Reed Solo TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faith Based Initiative T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Frankenberry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frosted Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fruit Loops T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good Samaritans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Granola T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Hungry Jack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Peace T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jack Be Nimble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mennonite Surf Party S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Name Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Name Unknown (5.4) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Obamanation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petrified Frog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sea Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shredded Wheat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whisky For Breakfast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Wylen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jeep Gaskin, Don Hunley, 1977
Page Views: 11,779 total, 90/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Feb 25, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This may be the most classic finger crack in the state of NC! It's got sustained moves all the way with an awesome fingertip crux. You may have to take a number for this one on a cold, clear Saturday.

Location

The route is just left of the chasm next to Fruit Loops. If you hike left up the base of the cliff from Fruit Loops, you'll find yourself at the base.
To start, either scramble up to the large, trampled ledge beneath the finger crack or climb (5.10ish) up the aesthetic arete to the same ledge. You can belay from the ground or up on this ledge.
Rap from rings.

Protection

The first 60' (the "business") don't take anything larger than a .75 camalot. A variety of small stuff and stoppers.
Bennett Anderson
cincinnati, ohio
 
Bennett Anderson   cincinnati, ohio
 
One of my favorite routes of all time! Good stances to place bomber gear everywhere you want it makes it a good climb to break into NC trad 11s. Nov 10, 2015
nickehman
Fresno, CA
  5.11a
nickehman   Fresno, CA
  5.11a
Very enjoyable. Whipped off the crux tip locks but it eats up the small stuff so there was worrys. After thinking more about my feet it didnt seem too bad. 5.10 to an 11 crux followed by easier stuff to the top. Mar 20, 2013
Kevin DB
  5.11a
Kevin DB  
  5.11a
Pretty sustained 5.10 climbing broken up by good rests to a distinct, fairly hard 5.11 crux. Totally awesome route. One of the best granite finger cracks anywhere. Anywhere. Seriously. It rules. Jan 21, 2013
While unusually splitter for a NC route, it's hard for me to think of this one as mega classic compared to granite cracks in other states. It is pretty much nice 9+ climbing to a hard sequence. Used to consider it 10c, but feels more slick/polished now, and wouldn't argue the listed grade. As far as being the best finger crack in NC, I don't even think it's the best finger crack in Hickory Nut Gorge. REALLY good route, just too short and unsustained to be mega classic for granite-like cracks. Not what I would be showing out-of-towners as an example of the best NC, or even Rumbling, has to offer. Dec 21, 2011
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
It's Aunt Jemima.
mountainproject.com/v/north… May 2, 2011
goatdavemac
Flat Rock, NC
goatdavemac   Flat Rock, NC
Does anyone have info about the crack/flake that is to the right of SW? There is a large flake 60 feet up with a bolt, and wondering about that line.... May 2, 2011
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.11-
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.11-
So much fun! Good fingers to a tips crux. It had a few tricky sections broken up by some good feet. I always thought "rattly fingers" meant tipped out purples or tight greens and there was none of that on this one.

.5's to green aliens, a few good nuts, maybe a .75 somewhere. Dec 12, 2010
ziggy  
I didn't find this route to be as sustained as is mentioned in the description. The crux section is obvious from the ground, and is about 10 ft long. The rest of the route is actually quite easy. Rattly finger jams and bad feet make this thing tricky for a few moves. Jan 18, 2010