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Routes in Cereal Buttress
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Aunt Jemima T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bee Tree T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Born Again S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Breakfast of Champions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Call of the Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Capt Crunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Doug Reed Solo TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Faith Based Initiative T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Frankenberry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Frosted Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fruit Loops T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Good Samaritans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Granola T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Eggs and Ham S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Hungry Jack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inner Peace T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Jack Be Nimble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mennonite Surf Party S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mid-Life Crisis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Name Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Name Unknown (5.4) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Obamanation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Petrified Frog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sea Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Shredded Wheat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whisky For Breakfast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Wylen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft |
| FA: | Jeep Gaskin, Don Hunley, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 12,786 total · 91/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Stayner on Feb 25, 2007 |
| Admins: | Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
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Description
This may be the most classic finger crack in the state of NC! It's got sustained moves all the way with an awesome fingertip crux. You may have to take a number for this one on a cold, clear Saturday.
Location
The route is just left of the chasm next to Fruit Loops. If you hike left up the base of the cliff from Fruit Loops, you'll find yourself at the base.
To start, either scramble up to the large, trampled ledge beneath the finger crack or climb (5.10ish) up the aesthetic arete to the same ledge. You can belay from the ground or up on this ledge.
Rap from rings.
To start, either scramble up to the large, trampled ledge beneath the finger crack or climb (5.10ish) up the aesthetic arete to the same ledge. You can belay from the ground or up on this ledge.
Rap from rings.
London (sort of)
.5's to green aliens, a few good nuts, maybe a .75 somewhere. Dec 12, 2010
Flat Rock, NC
Ridgway, CO
mountainproject.com/v/north… May 2, 2011
Bloomington, IN
cincinnati, ohio
Charlotte, NC
A short 5.10 tips layback leads to the big ledge, then about fifty feet of finger crack to a three move crux. The finger crack is 5.9 if you have big fingers, probably 10- if you have smaller digits, definitely not 10+! It would be great if this section went on for a few hundred feet.
The crux is shallow locks with atrocious feet. This route is safe, fun, and a great choice for pushing your grade! No gear bigger than 0.5 Camalot is needed, but a
.75 could come in handy. Crux protects well with blue and purple Metolius pieces. You can just leave the nuts on the ground if carrying enough finger-ish size pieces (orange Metolius and purple Camalot). Dec 23, 2017