Shredded Wheat

I didn't find this route to be as sustained as is mentioned in the description. The crux section is obvious from the ground, and is about 10 ft long. The rest of the route is actually quite easy. Rattly finger jams and bad feet make this thing tricky for a few moves. Jan 18, 2010

So much fun! Good fingers to a tips crux. It had a few tricky sections broken up by some good feet. I always thought "rattly fingers" meant tipped out purples or tight greens and there was none of that on this one.

.5's to green aliens, a few good nuts, maybe a .75 somewhere. Dec 12, 2010

Does anyone have info about the crack/flake that is to the right of SW? There is a large flake 60 feet up with a bolt, and wondering about that line.... May 2, 2011

It's Aunt Jemima.
mountainproject.com/v/north… May 2, 2011

While unusually splitter for a NC route, it's hard for me to think of this one as mega classic compared to granite cracks in other states. It is pretty much nice 9+ climbing to a hard sequence. Used to consider it 10c, but feels more slick/polished now, and wouldn't argue the listed grade. As far as being the best finger crack in NC, I don't even think it's the best finger crack in Hickory Nut Gorge. REALLY good route, just too short and unsustained to be mega classic for granite-like cracks. Not what I would be showing out-of-towners as an example of the best NC, or even Rumbling, has to offer. Dec 21, 2011

Pretty sustained 5.10 climbing broken up by good rests to a distinct, fairly hard 5.11 crux. Totally awesome route. One of the best granite finger cracks anywhere. Anywhere. Seriously. It rules. Jan 21, 2013

Very enjoyable. Whipped off the crux tip locks but it eats up the small stuff so there was worrys. After thinking more about my feet it didnt seem too bad. 5.10 to an 11 crux followed by easier stuff to the top. Mar 20, 2013

One of my favorite routes of all time! Good stances to place bomber gear everywhere you want it makes it a good climb to break into NC trad 11s. Nov 10, 2015

I think this route is great. The movement isn't as interesting as something like cornflake crack, but it's incredibly splitter and aesthetic. Be careful with your rope ends, the route is almost exactly 30 meters. Detailed beta below, don't keep reading if you want to onsight!

A short 5.10 tips layback leads to the big ledge, then about fifty feet of finger crack to a three move crux. The finger crack is 5.9 if you have big fingers, probably 10- if you have smaller digits, definitely not 10+! It would be great if this section went on for a few hundred feet.

The crux is shallow locks with atrocious feet. This route is safe, fun, and a great choice for pushing your grade! No gear bigger than 0.5 Camalot is needed, but a
.75 could come in handy. Crux protects well with blue and purple Metolius pieces. You can just leave the nuts on the ground if carrying enough finger-ish size pieces (orange Metolius and purple Camalot). Dec 23, 2017