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Routes in Cereal Buttress

Aunt Jemima T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Tree T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Born Again S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Call of the Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Capt Crunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doug Reed Solo TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faith Based Initiative T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Frankenberry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frosted Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fruit Loops T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good Samaritans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Granola T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Hungry Jack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Peace T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jack Be Nimble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mennonite Surf Party S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Name Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Name Unknown (5.4) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Obamanation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petrified Frog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sea Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shredded Wheat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whisky For Breakfast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Wylen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Brad Shaver, 1976
Page Views: 7,187 total, 55/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Feb 25, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


164 Opinions

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Description

Like Harrison Shull says in the guidebook, you should be solid at the grade before jumping on this one. I think the hardest moves come before you get any gear in. The potential fall is hard to describe, but you'll see it when you're looking at the route.
That said, Granola is a pretty fun undercling/crack route once you pull those first moves. And they're not that hard...

Location

The route is just right of Fruit Loops. Scramble up the large detached flake and belay from here. The "opening moves" involve a mantel on good holds up another flake.
Double-bolt rap anchor.
(The guidebook describes a second pitch, but I haven't done it. Most people don't. It looks fun, though.)

Protection

Take a variety of smaller stuff (up to a #2 camalot). Anything you place under the initial undercling roof should be slung long.
It's not the traverse at the bottom, moving left that's dangerous. That sews up like one of my scars from a drunken barroom brawl. It's stepping up to the traverse that's scary. Fortunately, by the time I jumped on this, I was casually flashing 5.9, and had a lot of 10's under my belt, so it was no big deal. But watch those first two or three moves from the top of the chimney to the under cling!!! Oct 18, 2017
Vanessa Gremler
Hendersonville, NC
 
Vanessa Gremler   Hendersonville, NC
 
We traversed over from Fruit Loops to set the top rope up and it seemed to be a pretty good idea. Love this climb because my friends who climb a little harder than me have the ability to hit something thats ~5.10 (going straight over the volume and using the crack) while I can hit the ~5.8 on the side (going around the roof to the left) from the same top rope. Jul 7, 2017
Brian Abram
Celo, NC
  5.9 PG13
Brian Abram   Celo, NC
  5.9 PG13
There's gear to be placed on the traverse to make the start relatively safe, but know this section has seen its share of very serious accidents, including a broken back. NC doesn't like to award the grades of 5.7 or 5.9 very often for whatever reason. Many routes get the infamously diverse 5.8+ when 5.9 is more appropriate. Jun 21, 2016
JohnnyRemein
Asheville
 
JohnnyRemein   Asheville
 
First moves aren't that terrible if you have comfortable slab feet, traverse protects well with nuts that are very easily removed (hence alternate identity "Grape NUTS!"). As others have said, sling pro under flake roof long, especially your last piece. Fun laybacking to crack slab romping. Rap rings at anchors. Nov 26, 2015
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
 
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
 
The opening is a little awkward but not hard. Slab traverse with an undercling that can be protected. Nov 24, 2014
Tylerclimb Labelle
Huntersville, North Carolina
 
Tylerclimb Labelle   Huntersville, North Carolina
 
I fell at the crux and I feel very lucky to only have sore feet now a week later. I could hardly walk after catching booth heels on that flake. I did get back up and finish the route. I think next time I won't mess around under the roof. Just place one piece and go. As soon as you get around the corner it's easy. Mar 13, 2013
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
I didn't find the fall potential to be too bad... Getting up to the first ledge is easy, and from there it's one solid mantle up to the crack and pro. The undercling traverse that follows is fun and heady. The main crack goes easy, with a little surprise waiting at the very end. Make sure to top rope Whiskey for Breakfast from the anchors! Dec 30, 2011
Sam Stephens  
 
Pitch 2 is worth doing. Watch the rope drag and string it out into one long pitch. Belay from the anchors up top and have fun getting back to the rings at the top of the first "pitch". Jan 20, 2011
The two second pitch vars. are excellent.
Var.1: From the belay anchors at the top of P1. Climb the fist crack out left overhead and turn the lip at 5.8. #4 camalot is helpful. Climb moderate terrain to two bolt belay.

Var.2: Traverse right from the P1 belay to gain a finger crack in a steep roof. Plug bomber gear and vault out over the lip on a few jugs. Belay from bolts on Frosted Flake. 5.9 Rap Frosted Flake and get your top rope on! Nov 23, 2010
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
  5.8+ PG13
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
  5.8+ PG13
Should be solid at the grade, its a nasty fall. May 27, 2010
ziggy
  5.9 R
ziggy  
  5.9 R
It would be wise if you are afraid of the opening moves to lead Fruit Loops first then place your first piece of gear for Granola on rappel. A fall from the crux moves (the opening moves) would be punishing. You would fall between 10'-25' into a Chimney system. Mar 8, 2010
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Second pitch climbs from under the roof at the anchors via a big crack. Pull this and romp to the top. I think there were rings up there also. Jan 20, 2009