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Routes in Cereal Buttress

Aunt Jemima T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Tree T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Born Again S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Call of the Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Capt Crunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doug Reed Solo TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faith Based Initiative T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Frankenberry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frosted Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fruit Loops T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good Samaritans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Granola T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Hungry Jack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Peace T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jack Be Nimble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mennonite Surf Party S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Name Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Name Unknown (5.4) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Obamanation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petrified Frog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sea Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shredded Wheat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whisky For Breakfast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Wylen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,270 total, 21/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Feb 8, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Fun face climb up left side of buttress. Crux is probably the starting 20 feet. Gear goes in "hole" feature and flake up high. Chain belay.

Location

As you approach ceral buttress there is a step across move on the trail. Bee Tree ascends the left side of the buttress immediately in front of you. Born Again is the bolted line up the right side of the face.

Protection

One bolt (sometimes), limited gear up to #3 Camalot.

Photos

This is a good route for a beginner, as long as they are comfortable with 5.5 moves. It can get a bit heady between that first bolt and the hole. Make sure you have a #3 cam so that you don't have to go all the way to the flake before you plug your second piece of gear. multiple spots for gear in the flakes near top. Fun climb over all. Sep 4, 2017
Trav W.  
If you want a fun multipitch route, continue up for two more pitches to a a tree. It stays at 5.5 depending on the route you take above the first pitch. You can rappel to the ground from the top of the second pitch with a single 70m rope. Dec 8, 2014
For those concerned with the PG-13 rating, it is not terribly far from the bolt to the hole, and then 3-4 feet from the hole to the flake. There is not much protection, but not much is needed. It is a comfortable lead, and a great top rope for first time climbers. Sep 25, 2014
Easy climb. If you have climbed for a while don't let the fact that it goes a ways between the bolt and the #4 hole without protection. If it is a concern, just walk up the slope on the left and place the protection before you ever start the climb. Nice view from the top. Not a good route to learn to lead trad as there is really nowhere to put pro. Apr 20, 2012
Spencer Martel
fayetteville, wv
Spencer Martel   fayetteville, wv
fun lead - super easy, a little heady if you let it get to you, but a great start into the lead game. Sep 26, 2011
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
Practice is an odd concept in traditional lead climbing. To practice leading gear/mixed routes, top rope, placing gear with the security of the rope above you and then evaluate your placements on the way back down (or have a friend evaluate your placements).

Otherwise, lead climb. Beginner-friendly leads are not practice routes. Leading easy routes is not practice. It is lead climbing. Leading is dangerous.

Perhaps this route is fun for beginners to TR (and therefore fun to put up for your friends), not to lead. Jun 11, 2011
Kevin Eaves
Greer, SC
Kevin Eaves   Greer, SC
sean, my friend and i tried bee tree a week ago and had to back off because didn't feel safe getting up to the hole. we would like to go back and bolt it all the way up and make it safer from the ground up. think it would be a great lead to practice on if protected a little better. Jun 7, 2011
fun route for beginners, but be careful leading it... i found no protection between the first bolt and the hole. I ended up scrambling up to the hole from the left and protected it with a #4 before finishing the route Jul 20, 2009
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
Easiest route in the area. Fun beginner route. The bolt has been removed a few times, but now that the tree branch is no longer there to sling, it will hopefully remain in place at the start. Feb 8, 2009