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Routes in Cereal Buttress

Aunt Jemima T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Tree T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Born Again S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Call of the Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Capt Crunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doug Reed Solo TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faith Based Initiative T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Frankenberry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frosted Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fruit Loops T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good Samaritans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Granola T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Hungry Jack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Peace T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jack Be Nimble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mennonite Surf Party S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Name Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Name Unknown (5.4) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Obamanation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petrified Frog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sea Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shredded Wheat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whisky For Breakfast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Wylen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eddie Begoon, Mike Artz, 1987
Page Views: 2,916 total, 22/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Feb 27, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Start in crack, then work up and left to great, thin, crimpy climbing. Crux is clipping second bolt. Continue working up and right past two more bolts.

Location

Route is located on the right edge of the Cereal (Surreal) Buttress, right next to Frosted Flake.

Protection

5 bolts, maybe some gear down low in the crack. Anchors at the top

Photos

Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
Sycamore, you're too strong to understand the need for the double rope technique. It's not to prevent drag. The gear is placed higher than the first bolt and waaaaay out left. It's there to keep you off the slab if you blow it trying to clip the 2nd bolt. Oct 28, 2013
4 bolts, not five. You can place a piece under the roof right in line with the first bolt- there's no need for double ropes, just sling it. The climbing is great, though you may be too gripped on the runouts to enjoy it. Oct 28, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.10d PG13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.10d PG13
Definitely agree about the doubles. I just tied into both ends of my rope then untied from one end at the anchor. Also blowing the upper mantle would not be a good idea. Awesome pitch! Mar 12, 2012
Phoffmann  
 
Some of the cleanest granite edging in NC. Beautiful. Nov 23, 2010
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
Best to use double ropes and use one to get a high piece in Frosted Flake. Otherwise, a fall near the bolt often results in broken ankle. Apr 10, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Martinis for everyone... Feb 28, 2007