Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eddie Begoon, Mike Artz, 1987
Page Views: 3,212 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Feb 27, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description

Start in crack, then work up and left to great, thin, crimpy climbing. Crux is clipping second bolt. Continue working up and right past two more bolts.

Location

Route is located on the right edge of the Cereal (Surreal) Buttress, right next to Frosted Flake.

Protection

5 bolts, maybe some gear down low in the crack. Anchors at the top

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Martinis for everyone... Feb 28, 2007
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
Best to use double ropes and use one to get a high piece in Frosted Flake. Otherwise, a fall near the bolt often results in broken ankle. Apr 10, 2008
Phoffmann  
 
Some of the cleanest granite edging in NC. Beautiful. Nov 23, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.10d PG13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.10d PG13
Definitely agree about the doubles. I just tied into both ends of my rope then untied from one end at the anchor. Also blowing the upper mantle would not be a good idea. Awesome pitch! Mar 12, 2012
Mark Paulson
Raleigh, NC
Mark Paulson   Raleigh, NC
4 bolts, not five. You can place a piece under the roof right in line with the first bolt- there's no need for double ropes, just sling it. The climbing is great, though you may be too gripped on the runouts to enjoy it. Oct 28, 2013
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
Sycamore, you're too strong to understand the need for the double rope technique. It's not to prevent drag. The gear is placed higher than the first bolt and waaaaay out left. It's there to keep you off the slab if you blow it trying to clip the 2nd bolt. Oct 28, 2013