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Routes in Cereal Buttress

Aunt Jemima T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Tree T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Born Again S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Call of the Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Capt Crunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doug Reed Solo TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faith Based Initiative T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Frankenberry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frosted Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fruit Loops T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good Samaritans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Granola T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Hungry Jack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Peace T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jack Be Nimble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mennonite Surf Party S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Name Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Name Unknown (5.4) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Obamanation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petrified Frog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sea Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shredded Wheat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whisky For Breakfast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Wylen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sean Cobourn, Doug Swords, Allen Irwin- Feb 8, 2009
Page Views: 2,597 total, 24/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Feb 7, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

P1- Finess your way up the wide crack. Where you want a #5 Camalot you can clip the third bolt on Frankenberry to your right instead. Where obvious, step left onto the fun face passing a bolt and avoiding some nastiness. Face climb up to the halfway ledge and belay in the obvious arching crack. 5.9+?
P2- Climb the big hand crack up to and through the overlap and then cut right to the Frankenberry belay bolts. 5.8+? Rappell the route with two ropes.

Location

The formerly vegetated wide crack between Breakfast of Champions and Frankenberry.

Protection

Up to # 5 Camalot is nice, if you have one (we did not). Up to #4 will do. 2 bolts (one is third bolt on Frankenberry).

Photos

Noah.J
Salt Lake City, UT
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
I tried, but we all ended with the itchiness. Nov 21, 2013
Noah was it possible to climb around the ivy? Nov 18, 2013
Noah.J
Salt Lake City, UT
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
The second pitch is money, but the first pitch could use some gardening (bring your gloves, the ivy is still there). If you have a #6 consider bringing it for the P1 wideness. Nov 12, 2013
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
better and more fun to do it as one long pitch. Dec 28, 2009
Jeff Jenkins
  5.9+ PG13
Jeff Jenkins  
  5.9+ PG13
This route is a lot better than it looks from the ground. The offwigth is not technical then you access the face to your left to a ledge then back to the right to a killer left facing dihedrial. We linked both pitchs and then rapped to B. of Champians anchor to finish the rap. Great climb , seams to have a crux in the face then one in the corner above. A little run out on the face but not too bad. Nov 28, 2009
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
  5.9 PG13
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
  5.9 PG13
The 2nd pitch is excellent. Excellent protection all the way through. Should become a popular route now that it's clean Nov 15, 2009
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Jeff, I think that you missed the best part... the upper hand crack. Fun route, hopefully the PI won't overtake it again. I used a new #4 camelot deep in the wide section, but a #5 would have been much better if I'd had it with me. The last overlap in the crack was a bit tricky, especially since it was damp at the time. Nov 13, 2009
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Climbed this last weekend...good route that doesn't require the wide crack technique it may look like it needs. I used a 4 and a 5. Also, after clipping the bolt, I headed left to the bolts on Breakfast of Champions to lower off of. Sean and all, thanks for cleaning it up. Mar 14, 2009
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
This is the last of the routes to ascend the formerly poison ivy choked wall right of Frosted Flake. A handful of us spent several days over the last few years excavating 5 decent routes and suffered the itchy consequences.
This one will clean up nicely after a couple ascents and a couple rain storms. Look out for some stray loose stones on P2, it is still a tad crispy up there. Feb 7, 2009