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Elevation: 365 ft 111 m
GPS: 35.60368, -79.2773
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Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

Description Suggest change

You could probably make a strong case for North Carolina as the home of the best rock climbing in the south. No other southern state has the variety or sheer volume hosted here. From the multi-pitch quartzite of Linville Gorge, to the eyebrows and hard aid of Looking Glass, to the exposed granite scarefests of Cashiers Valley, North Carolina has it all.

In addition to great rock and lots of destinations, North Carolina has a reputation for tradition that is not to be trifled with. Most routes in the state were established with ground-up techniques using whatever protection the rock affords, placing bolts only on lead and only when absolutely necessary. Anyone unwise enough to rap-bolt a route will usually come back to find their work erased by the locals.

What this means, at least in anything above an easy-to-moderate grade, is that you need a good lead head if you're going to climb in North Carolina. Long runouts between pro or bolts are taken for granted here, and even moderate and/or well-protected routes can be stout for the grade.

For beginners and new trad leaders, Table Rock is a great destination. Fun leads in the “easy” range (5.3-5.5) abound, and there’s good opportunities for toproping at the nearby Chimneys. More experienced leaders will enjoy the airy multi-pitch moderates at the neighboring Amphitheater in Linville Gorge, or the granite crack climbs of Rumbling Bald.

If you’re ready to raise the stakes, take a trip to Stone Mountain, a huge granite dome with great friction climbing and wild runouts. And for the ultimate in NC climbing, head for Whiteside Mountain or Laurel Knob; only the seriously adventurous need apply.

Bouldering: There is an unbelievable amount of bouldering areas in North Carolina, some of which are world-renowned. The Boone region is host to myriad and historically established bouldering areas. Rumbling Bald has phenomenal bouldering and a wonderful Full Color Bouldering Guidebook . The Linville Gorge is loaded with boulders and Joey Henson's Linville Gorge Bouldering Map beautifully illustrates that. Hound Ears, near Boone, is host for the first leg of the celebrated Triple Crown bouldering competition (unfortunately, that is the only time Hound Ears is open to climbing). Along with these areas Moores Wall, Asheboro, and many other wonderful bouldering locations can be found scattered throughout the Old North State.

Getting There Suggest change

The climbing in North Carolina is spread across the state and divided into several distinct regions. From the tobacco fields of the Piedmont to the dramatic gorges in the High Country to the granite walls of the Southern Blue Ridge Mountains; if you are west of Raleigh you are probably close to amazing climbing. See individual areas for directions.

Access Issues

Suggest change
The USFS temporarily closes many areas in North Carolina for Peregrine Falcon nesting. The Carolina Climbers Coalition does a great job of keeping their site up to date regarding closures.

Also, it seems that the CCC is always working on opening access to new climbing areas around the state. They have been invaluable in opening areas like Asheboro, Rumbling Bald, and Laurel Knob, just to mention a few. If you climb in North Carolina, think about donating time or money to the cause and/or joining the CCC.

3,647 Total Climbs

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Location: North Carolina Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at North Carolina

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 300
North Ridge
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 368
The Great Arch
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 325
The Mummy
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 406
The Daddy
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 241
Wailing Wall
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 235
Maginot Line
Trad 4 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 432
Fruit Loops
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 292
Zoo View
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 459
The Nose
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 235
Boardwalk
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 215
White Lightning
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 145
Air Show
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 213
Dopey Duck
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 267
Frosted Flake
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 178
Shredded Wheat
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Ridge 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Table Rock
 300
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
The Great Arch 3. Piedmont Region > Stone Mountain > Stone Mtn S Face
 368
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
The Mummy 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Amphitheater
 325
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
The Daddy 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Amphitheater
 406
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Wailing Wall 3. Piedmont Region > … > Moore's Wall (R… > Amphitheater
 241
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Maginot Line 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Shortoff Mountain
 235
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Fruit Loops 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress
 432
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Zoo View 3. Piedmont Region > … > Sentinel Buttress > Circus Wall
 292
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Nose 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > Nose Area
 459
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Boardwalk 2. Northern Mou… > Ship Rock > Main Tier
 235
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
White Lightning 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Table Rock
 215
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Air Show 3. Piedmont Region > … > Sentinel Buttress > Circus Wall
 145
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Dopey Duck 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Shortoff Mountain
 213
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Frosted Flake 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress
 267
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Shredded Wheat 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress
 178
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in North Carolina »

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