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Areas in North Carolina

107 Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 32 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Bailey Mountain Boulders 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Big Green 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Birkhead Wilderness Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Black Mountain Range Alpine Climbs 9 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 9 / 0 / 1 / 10 / 10
Blowing Rock Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 27 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Bonas Defeat 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Bradley Falls 9 / 12 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Buffalo Creek Park 1 / 0 / 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Carrboro/University Lake boulders 2 / 0 / 3 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Cashiers Area (Ice) 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 11
Cathey's Creek Crag 17 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
Cedar Rock 86 / 14 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 92
Climbing Gyms 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Closed 76 / 12 / 0 / 65 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 144
Cooks Wall 52 / 57 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 106
Corner Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 27 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Crowders Mountain 138 / 60 / 95 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 202
Dixon School Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 71 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 71
Doughton Park (ice) 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Duke University 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Dump, The 5 / 28 / 3 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 54
Eagle Rock 19 / 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
East Slate Rock 17 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Holloway Mountain 8 / 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Horseshoe Rock 5 / 7 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Laurel Knob 82 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 83
Lettered Rock Ridge 6 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Linville Gorge 239 / 56 / 4 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 276
Little Wilson 1 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Looking Glass Rock 121 / 8 / 2 / 8 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 132
Moore's Wall 131 / 19 / 9 / 94 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 239
Pickens Nose 11 / 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Pilot Mountain 20 / 36 / 56 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 99
Pilot Rock 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Raleigh area climbing 1 / 0 / 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Rocky Face Recreational Area 5 / 40 / 29 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 65
Rocky Knob Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Rodanthe Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Rumbling Bald 169 / 68 / 6 / 159 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 358
Sam's Knob Ice Climbing 5 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Ship Rock 42 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 42
Snake's Den 9 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Stone Depot 4 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Stone Mountain 52 / 15 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 61
Stony Bald 0 / 0 / 0 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36
Sunken Treasure 9 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Thunder Hill Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Victory Wall 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Whiteside Mountain 55 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 57
Elevation: 365 ft
GPS: 35.604, -79.277 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,716,844 total · 18,687/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006 with updates from J Gaydosh
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

Description

You could probably make a strong case for North Carolina as the home of the best rock climbing in the south. No other southern state has the variety or sheer volume hosted here. From the multi-pitch quartzite of Linville Gorge, to the eyebrows and hard aid of Looking Glass, to the exposed granite scarefests of Cashiers Valley, North Carolina has it all.

In addition to great rock and lots of destinations, North Carolina has a reputation for tradition that is not to be trifled with. Most routes in the state were established with ground-up techniques using whatever protection the rock affords, placing bolts only on lead and only when absolutely necessary. Anyone unwise enough to rap-bolt a route will usually come back to find their work erased by the locals.

What this means, at least in anything above an easy-to-moderate grade, is that you need a good lead head if you’re going to climb in North Carolina. Long runouts between pro or bolts are taken for granted here, and even moderate and/or well-protected routes can be stout for the grade.

For beginners and new trad leaders, Table Rock is a great destination. Fun leads in the “easy” range (5.3-5.5) abound, and there’s good opportunities for toproping at the nearby Chimneys. More experienced leaders will enjoy the airy multi-pitch moderates at the neighboring Amphitheater in Linville Gorge, or the granite crack climbs of Rumbling Bald.

If you’re ready to raise the stakes, take a trip to Stone Mountain, a huge granite dome with great friction climbing and wild runouts. And for the ultimate in NC climbing, head for Whiteside Mountain or Laurel Knob; only the seriously adventurous need apply.

Bouldering: There is an unbelievable amount of bouldering areas in North Carolina, some of which are world-renowned. The Boone region is host to myriad and historically established bouldering areas. Rumbling Bald has phenomenal bouldering and a wonderful Full Color Bouldering Guidebook . The Linville Gorge is loaded with boulders and Joey Henson's Linville Gorge Bouldering Map beautifully illustrates that. Hound Ears, near Boone, is host for the first leg of the celebrated Triple Crown bouldering competition (unfortunately, that is the only time Hound Ears is open to climbing). Along with these areas Moores Wall, Asheboro, and many other wonderful bouldering locations can be found scattered throughout the Old North State.

Getting There

The climbing in North Carolina is spread across the state and divided into several distinct regions. From the tobacco fields of the Piedmont to the dramatic gorges in the High Country to the granite walls of the Southern Blue Ridge Mountains; if you are west of Raleigh you are probably close to amazing climbing. See individual areas for directions.

Access Issues

The USFS temporarily closes many areas in North Carolina for Peregrine Falcon nesting. The Carolina Climbers Coalition does a great job of keeping their site up to date regarding closures.

Also, it seems that the CCC is always working on opening access to new climbing areas around the state. They have been invaluable in opening areas like Asheboro, Rumbling Bald, and Laurel Knob, just to mention a few. If you climb in North Carolina, think about donating time or money to the cause and/or joining the CCC.

2,548 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Carolina

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 261
The Great Arch
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 257
The Daddy
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 150
Wailing Wall
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 278
Fruit Loops
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 188
Zoo View
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 290
The Nose
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 149
Boardwalk
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 148
White Lightning
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 93
Air Show
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 144
Dopey Duck
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 168
Frosted Flake
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 81
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest…
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 86
Straight and Narrow
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 109
Shredded Wheat
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 74
Quaker State
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Arch Stone Mtn > Stone Mtn S Face
 261
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
The Daddy Linville Gorge > Amphitheater
 257
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Wailing Wall Moore's Wall > Amphitheater
 150
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Fruit Loops Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress
 278
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Zoo View Moore's Wall > Sentinel Buttress > Circus Wall
 188
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Nose Looking Glass Rock > Nose Area
 290
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Boardwalk Ship Rock > Main Tier
 149
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
White Lightning Linville Gorge > Table Rock
 148
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Air Show Moore's Wall > Sentinel Buttress > Circus Wall
 93
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Dopey Duck Linville Gorge > Shortoff Mtn
 144
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Frosted Flake Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress
 168
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Titties & Beer (aka "World… Looking Glass Rock > Sun Wall
 81
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Straight and Narrow Linville Gorge > Shortoff Mtn
 86
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Shredded Wheat Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress
 109
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Quaker State Moore's Wall > Amphitheater
 74
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in North Carolina »

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Photos

Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I'll leave a comment. North Carolina is awesome for climbing! There is a ton of high-quality stone, and the surroundings are world-class. Sep 27, 2017
Dan B  
Does anyone know where I can get a "No-Mag"??
I bought one from Steve Longnecker back in '89 and it's about worn out now. Is he still selling them?
Thanks! May 4, 2018

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