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Routes in Table Rock

Alternate Reality T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Tears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cave Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Center Stage T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Champ's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Consolation Prize S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cool-down route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornsnake Crack T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crackerjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crushed Velvet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Devil’s Cellar Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ellie Raynolds Memorial Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excess Reality T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Field's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fresh Garbage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging High T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helmet Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Helmet Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobble and Gobble T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hobbling Hobbit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
ICU T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indecent exposure T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irish Stout T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Iron Maiden T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jim Dandy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Junior's Last Laugh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just Say Moo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
K-Mart Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lateral Inhibition T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
My Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peek-a-Boo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peterbuilt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Refrain T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rip Van Winkle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Second Stanza T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sideshow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Skip to My Lou T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slippin' into Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solar Plexus T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tall Climb to Be Good On T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tankslapper S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trundler, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Pitch T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Warm Up Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waste A Bit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
What's Up Doc? T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wooly Aphid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Peter Young, John Lawrence, Peter Prandoni - 1972
Page Views: 14,485 total, 111/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Perhaps the best route on Table Rock. 2 fantastic corners connected with some fun face.

This climb connects the first pitch of True Grit with the second pitch of White Light. The rest of the original lines are rarely done and are highly vegetated.

P1: Stem and jam your way up the fantastic corner. At the top, exit left, then climb up and right along crack systems on a nice slab. Belay at a semi-hanging stance in small corner below a large, arching crack.

P2: Step right from the belay and climb out under the roof, then turn the lip where the roof ends and climb the fun corner until where it gets dirty. Look for a clean, almost horizontal traverse right onto a moss clod ledge. Follow this ledge over to the pitons on the North Ridge.

P3: Rap from this pin nest (one 60 m rope will get you to the ground), or continue up the North Ridge (5.5).

Location

About 200 ft downhill (left) of North Ridge. From the parking lot, hike up the summit trail a few hundred yards until the East Face climber's trail cuts right. Take this trail around under the East Face shortly after Helmet/Slippin' into Darkness, the trail turns and starts to climb uphill. Follow it past the Cave Route, over some boulders, and continue for about 200 yards until a small clearing immediately underneath a large, clean, right-facing dihedral about 80 feet high. That's your route.

Protection

Nuts, cams to 3".

There is sometimes fixed gear at the P1 belay, but don't count on it.

The pin nest at the end of P2 usually has a solid rap station. You can rap to the ground from here with one 60 m rope.
5.8, no less, no more. To climb it at the grade you will need good technique in the dihedral, but good rests abound, and the route eats gear if you want it. Totally classic and somewhat reminiscent of granite. I would do this climb again and again. Oct 16, 2017
Olivia Stavros-Tracy
Charlotte, NC
  5.8+
Olivia Stavros-Tracy   Charlotte, NC
  5.8+
Just climbed White Lightning on Sunday! My first 5.8 trad lead! Excellent and super fun route, can be done in one pitch with some serious rope drag. The route eats gear but can be a little heady. Must do for Table Rock! Jul 31, 2017
Adam Fleming
Moab, Utah
  5.8+
Adam Fleming   Moab, Utah
  5.8+
There are now bolted anchors with rap rings at the top of p2. They're strange to see, but are much appreciated.

Be nice and protect your follower on the easy p2 traverse, it doesn't add any drag!

p1 gave me a lot of trouble, but I was also mentally exhausted. Sustained 5.8+ is probably accurate. I cruised up p2 for whatever reason. Mar 19, 2016
Jason Spitzley
  5.8+
Jason Spitzley  
  5.8+
Best route I've climbed at Table Rock. I would agree with 5.8+ because of how sustained and consistent at grade it is. I really enjoyed having to work the whole two pitches, not the usual 1-2 move routes at Table Rock. Jun 29, 2015
Ryanb.
Chatt or WA
Ryanb.   Chatt or WA
rain bailed on a big WC stopper/hex at p1 anchor, yours if you can get it loose May 21, 2015
Curtis Baird
  5.8+
Curtis Baird  
  5.8+
This is the best route I have done at Table. Solid gear the entire way. I felt this was at least 5.8+ because of how sustained it is. Crucial to know how to stem and jam due to the fact that there are not many places to get a good foot rest, especially on the first pitch. Totally different style than the usually Table Rock slab. As of May 2 2015 there is a fixed nut and friend at the top of the first pitch. Plenty of options to build an anchor though. Second pitch is fantastic just too short! A classic for sure! May 3, 2015
Brad Stewart
Aspen
  5.8
Brad Stewart   Aspen
  5.8
P2 definitely gets your blood pumping when first setting out from the belay. Great holds inside the crack and good feet make this an extremely fun climb. Solid gear placements throughout. #1 and 2 camalots seemed to work well on the way up and brown and blue tricams are bomber for the traverse. Sep 8, 2014
Jed N
Raleigh, NC
  5.8+
Jed N   Raleigh, NC
  5.8+
Great climb. First pitch felt a little harder than second. Second pitch was just fun. A roof then overhaning corner. Good pro entire climb. Hike in has some bushwhacking Aug 6, 2014
Shadrock
Here and there.
 
Shadrock   Here and there.
 
Absolutely superb route. If you're looking for a good test-piece at the grade this is it. Don't worry about the reputation: everything is there and the gear is so solid you can get by with flailing a lot (I did). At the time of writing there's still fixed gear and webbing at the top of P1 that's looking a little weathered but sill solid. There's also a very solid nut w/ a few 'biners on an orange sling. I'm assuming somebody backed up the anchor to rap off? In any event, we left it as it compliments the fixed gear for a nice ready-made anchor. Cordelette on P2 is still in very good shape. Sep 3, 2013
Cody...Get Corey up there with you and remove that block!!! Never under estimate the power of people to pull on questionable rock. I usually take a few extra pieces of webbing or cord to donate to the pin nest at the top of pitch 2 and cut away the old stuff.

All this aside, this climb is fantastic and well worth a go for anyone who is looking for a stellar moderate! Apr 11, 2013
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.8+
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.8+
Great Climb! The first pitch corner is steep, fun, well protected and has a couple strenuous moves for the shorty. The fixed belay is still intact atop the first pitch (two pieces and old webbing)as of 11-20-12; a couple tri-cams back up the belay very well. The second pitch is a good as it looks, just ends a little to early! Nov 21, 2012
Sarah Crosier
Estes Park, CO
Sarah Crosier   Estes Park, CO
I started leading up this and then it started to rain. So disappointed. I'm coming back for it some day! Dec 25, 2010
Benjamin S.
Fairview (Nashville), TN
 
Benjamin S.   Fairview (Nashville), TN
 
This is easily my favorite route on Table Rock so far. P1 is techy enough to keep you focused with all the stemming and such, and P2 is just absolute fun. Nothing scary about White Lightning; great gear, great views of the gorge and Hawksbill. Highly recommended. Apr 4, 2010
ziggy  
best route i have climbed at table rock. some people feel that 5.8 is a bit stiff for the grade, but I think if you take the time to look around and know how to stem, this route can easily be 5.8. gear is ample and bomber. Nov 17, 2009
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Super cool aesthetic feature, but I thought the corner on Slippin' was better. It was nice that this one was a multi, but I wish that second pitch was a bit longer. Oh well, fun regardless. Jun 8, 2009
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
I found I was mostly able to stem up the first pitch with very secure jamming. This crack eat's protection. The exit out of the crack left is easy if you are patient. There is still some work left to get to the belay. Continue up p2 past right leaning crack to ledge and we hopped on N ridge to top. Feb 19, 2008
sam.f
Santa Cruz, CA
 
sam.f   Santa Cruz, CA
 
You should! It's the best moderate route I've done at Table Rock. If you're up for it I would also highly recommend Waste a Bit, its more difficult neighbor immediately to the left; also very fun/high quality for Table Rock. Dec 31, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
I was really wanting to lead this one after seeing the great pictures in the guidebook, but didn't get around to it last time I was there. Next time, it's my top priority! Mar 1, 2007