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Shortoff Mountain Rock Climbing
Routes in Shortoff Mountain
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Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Early Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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False Paradise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Golden Rule T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Julia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Paradise Lost T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Serentripitous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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White Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Elevation: | 2,739 ft |
| GPS: | 35.831, -81.903 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 97,113 total · 701/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Forrester on Apr 2, 2007 |
| Admins: | Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Seasonal Raptor closure in effect January 15-August 15.
NC Wall- All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed.
Shortoff Mountain- All climbing between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed.
For questions contact USFS Grandfather Ranger District: 828-652-2144
For more information visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/nfsnc/al…
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
or Contact USFS Wildlife Biologist Sheryl Bryan. sbryan@fs.fed.us
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed.
Details
All areas between and including C.O. (including Paradigm Shift are closed January 15-August 15.
For more information visit: fs.usda.gov/main/nfsnc/home
or Contact USFS Wildlife Biologist Sheryl Bryan. sbryan@fs.fed.us
For more information visit: fs.usda.gov/main/nfsnc/home
or Contact USFS Wildlife Biologist Sheryl Bryan. sbryan@fs.fed.us
Description
Shortoff Mountain is a beautiful adventure climbing locale at the southern end of the Linville Gorge in NC. The southwest exposures are perfect on autumn and spring days when you can look across the gorge and see the reds and yellows or greens and whites. There are rarely other climbers there, the most crowded weekend I have seen is two other parties. The climbing as far as I know all requires an ability to place gear and build your own anchors. If you just clip bolts, you might want to freshen up on your gear skills first. The rock is characterized by crack systems interspersed with wild horizontals. On many routes, a hug horizontal jug is just far enough out of reach to make it exciting. The rock is clean in most places, but there is a fair bit of lichen on the rarely climbed routes, giving the climbs an increased sense of adventure.
Shortoff North/Shortoff South
The approach gully is the main landmark for locating routes at Shortoff. For convenience, route descriptions in this section will include the designation Shortoff North for lines north of the approach gully, and Shortoff South for climbs to the south of the gully.
Getting There
Take exit 90 (Nebo/Lake James) to the north. You will be on Harmony Grove Road. You have two options, left or right. If you go left, take a right when you hit NC 126, if you go right take a left. Either way, get to NC 126 and follow it North. You will pass through some farmland and golf course as you pass around Lake James. After you cross a small one lane bridge a ways down the road (10 miles) start looking for Wolf Pit Road (it is dirt). Follow this road up until it dead ends. There is camping at the end of the road. However, you have to pass through private property in your car so respect that. Keep the music down and don't camp on someone's property.
Approach by taking the logging road at the north end of the turn around. At one point you will cross the Mountain to Sea trail. keep Going straight (west). You will eventually reach a spring. This is the approach gully. If you have climbed in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, your option will seem fairly obvious. Drop down the gully and be ready to climb out. Oh, the water should be OK coming from the tap.
Approach by taking the logging road at the north end of the turn around. At one point you will cross the Mountain to Sea trail. keep Going straight (west). You will eventually reach a spring. This is the approach gully. If you have climbed in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, your option will seem fairly obvious. Drop down the gully and be ready to climb out. Oh, the water should be OK coming from the tap.
Classic Climbing Routes at Shortoff Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
10 Comments
More About Shortoff Mountain
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Guidebooks (1)
greensboro
The road is now in good shape all the way to the circle at the end. Camping here is ok. But if you want privacy, better hump it up the mountain about 1 hour hike.
The path you want from the Wolfpit circle goes uphill and turns right uphill.
Water is scarce on Shortoff. www.linvillegorge.net gives maps and waypoints for the two springs.
The north end of Shortoff has less dramatic rock but is relatively unexplored.
Bob Underwood Nov 13, 2007
CO
greensboro
Santa Barbara, CA
If you miss the 90 degree right turn 1/4 mile along the entrance trail, you will end up way down in the valley in a maze of ATV tracks. Easy to do at night - ouch!! Nov 9, 2009
Charlotte, NC
Portland, OR
western NC --> Broomfield, CO
Everything climbers right (south) of Bonsai. The route CO doesn't really exist so Bonsai is the best estimation. Feb 15, 2018
Atlanta, GA