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Shortoff Mountain Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Shortoff Mountain

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	Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Dizzy Gillespie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Early Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	False Paradise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Golden Rule T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
	Julia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	King of Tulips, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Paradise Lost T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Ralph’s Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Serentripitous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sword of the Lord T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	White Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	2,759 ft
GPS:	35.831, -81.903 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	152,892 total · 947/month
Shared By:	Joe Forrester on Apr 2, 2007 with improvements by Yonathan Lewit
Admins:	Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry History (Admin Only): Aaron Parlier approved this area Jan 28, 2020 View all 3 Steve Lineberry approved this area Feb 19, 2020 Aaron Parlier approved this area Jul 7, 2020

Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

On 5/8 at 5 pm, some restrictions will be lifted for the state. Please check before going regarding closures and DO NOT TRESPASS! Be sure you are practicing social distancing of 6ft between you and other people you do not cohabitate with. For more information see the CCC site: carolinaclimbers.org/covid-19

In addition - all 2020 raptor closures on the Nantahala Pisgah NF are LIFTED as of 6/29/2020

Access Issue: Details

UPDATED For 2020:

All routes are now open.

Description

Shortoff Mountain is a beautiful adventure climbing locale at the southern end of the Linville Gorge in NC. The southwest exposures are perfect on autumn and spring days when you can look across the gorge and see the reds and yellows or greens and whites. There are rarely other climbers there, the most crowded weekend I have seen is two other parties. The climbing as far as I know all requires an ability to place gear and build your own anchors. If you just clip bolts, you might want to freshen up on your gear skills first. The rock is characterized by crack systems interspersed with wild horizontals. On many routes, a hug horizontal jug is just far enough out of reach to make it exciting. The rock is clean in most places, but there is a fair bit of lichen on the rarely climbed routes, giving the climbs an increased sense of adventure.

Shortoff North/Shortoff South

The approach gully is the main landmark for locating routes at Shortoff. For convenience, route descriptions in this section will include the designation Shortoff North for lines north of the approach gully, and Shortoff South for climbs to the south of the gully.

Getting There

Take exit 90 (Nebo/Lake James) to the north. You'll be on Harmony Grove Road. You have two options, left or right. If you go left, take a right when you hit NC 126, if you go right take a left. Either way, get to NC 126 and follow it North. You'll pass through some farmland and golf course as you pass around Lake James. After you cross a small one lane bridge a ways down the road (10 miles) start looking for Wolf Pit Road (it is dirt). Follow this road up until it dead ends. There is camping at the end of the road. However, you have to pass through private property in your car so respect that. Keep the music down and don't camp on someone's property.Approach by taking the logging road at the north end of the turn around. Take a right about 1/4 mile in heading uphill. At one point you'll join the Mountain to Sea trail. You'll eventually reach the canyon rim and then a spring. This is the approach gully. If you have climbed in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, your option will seem fairly obvious. Drop down the gully and be ready to climb out. Oh, the water should be OK coming from the tap.

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shortoff Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 100 ● Little Corner Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 172 ● Maginot Line Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 24 ● False Paradise Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 81 ● Paradise Alley Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 72 ● Construction Job Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 170 ● Dopey Duck Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 98 ● Straight and Narrow Trad 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 67 ● Built to Tilt Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 40 ● Julia Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 12 ● Humdinger Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 14 ● The Dancing Outlaw Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 14 ● Golden Rule Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 10 ● The Big Arete Trad 3 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 5 ● Full Tilt Boogie Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 25 ● Supercrack Trad 3 pitches