Elevation: 2,759 ft
GPS: 35.831, -81.903 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 152,892 total · 947/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on Apr 2, 2007 with improvements by Yonathan Lewit
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry
Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details
Access Issue: Details

Description

Shortoff Mountain is a beautiful adventure climbing locale at the southern end of the Linville Gorge in NC. The southwest exposures are perfect on autumn and spring days when you can look across the gorge and see the reds and yellows or greens and whites. There are rarely other climbers there, the most crowded weekend I have seen is two other parties. The climbing as far as I know all requires an ability to place gear and build your own anchors. If you just clip bolts, you might want to freshen up on your gear skills first. The rock is characterized by crack systems interspersed with wild horizontals. On many routes, a hug horizontal jug is just far enough out of reach to make it exciting. The rock is clean in most places, but there is a fair bit of lichen on the rarely climbed routes, giving the climbs an increased sense of adventure.

Shortoff North/Shortoff South

The approach gully is the main landmark for locating routes at Shortoff. For convenience, route descriptions in this section will include the designation Shortoff North for lines north of the approach gully, and Shortoff South for climbs to the south of the gully.

Getting There

Take exit 90 (Nebo/Lake James) to the north. You'll be on Harmony Grove Road. You have two options, left or right. If you go left, take a right when you hit NC 126, if you go right take a left. Either way, get to NC 126 and follow it North. You'll pass through some farmland and golf course as you pass around Lake James. After you cross a small one lane bridge a ways down the road (10 miles) start looking for Wolf Pit Road (it is dirt). Follow this road up until it dead ends. There is camping at the end of the road. However, you have to pass through private property in your car so respect that. Keep the music down and don't camp on someone's property.Approach by taking the logging road at the north end of the turn around. Take a right about 1/4 mile in heading uphill. At one point you'll join the Mountain to Sea trail. You'll eventually reach the canyon rim and then a spring. This is the approach gully. If you have climbed in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, your option will seem fairly obvious. Drop down the gully and be ready to climb out. Oh, the water should be OK coming from the tap.

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shortoff Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 100
Little Corner
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 172
Maginot Line
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
False Paradise
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 81
Paradise Alley
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 72
Construction Job
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 170
Dopey Duck
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 98
Straight and Narrow
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 67
Built to Tilt
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Julia
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 12
Humdinger
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
The Dancing Outlaw
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Golden Rule
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 10
The Big Arete
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 5
Full Tilt Boogie
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 25
Supercrack
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Little Corner
 100
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
Maginot Line
 172
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
False Paradise
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Paradise Alley
 81
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Construction Job
 72
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Dopey Duck
 170
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Straight and Narrow
 98
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Built to Tilt
 67
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Julia
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Humdinger
 12
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
The Dancing Outlaw
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Golden Rule
 14
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
The Big Arete
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
Full Tilt Boogie
 5
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Supercrack
 25
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
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