Description

The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.

All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.

Getting There

After entering the park, drive past the office about two miles down the main park road to a parking lot on the left. Follow a short trail up to an old restored farm and out into a meadow below the face of the mountain, then hike up to the wall that forms the access to the tree ledge where many of the face climbs begin.

53 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Stone Mountain South Face Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Stone Mountain South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 265
The Great Arch
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 104
No Alternative
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 83
U Slot
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 122
Block Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 81
The Pulpit
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 52
Dirty Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 37
Yardarm
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 39
Grand Funk Railroad
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 28
Mercury's Lead
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Great White Way
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 17
Fantastic
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 26
Electric Boobs
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 19
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 21
Rainy Day Women
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 18
Storm in a Teacup
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Arch
 265
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
No Alternative
 104
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
U Slot
 83
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Block Route
 122
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
The Pulpit
 81
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Dirty Crack
 52
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Yardarm
 37
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Grand Funk Railroad
 39
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Mercury's Lead
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Great White Way
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Fantastic
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Electric Boobs
 26
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go…
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Rainy Day Women
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Storm in a Teacup
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Stone Mountain South Face »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
bradley white   Bend
Climbed here in May, 1988 with Jim Shimberg and agreed, it does get greasy humidity on the rock. Run outs were WTF with old 1/4" hardware bolts. no guide book and we did two, probably 5.9's and the classic arch. Didn't think much about grade when I was going to hit the ground after the second bolt. The bolts were spaced reasonably, meaning there was a slope bump to have a stance to hammer a hole in the rock. very rusty crap in 1988 and N.C.N.F. would not permit retro-bolting or doing any new bolted routes. Jim and I thought eventually climbers would be killed here by failing anchors. Glad we got down rappelling and really relieved Stone Mountain was face lifted. there were dozens of goats there. May 16, 2014
DaveBaker
Durham, NC
DaveBaker   Durham, NC
The guidebook link is incorrect -- updated link is here mountaineersbooks.org/Selec… Jun 27, 2016
There's huge tree that is about to topple over on tree ledge about 15 ft left of no alternative. Apr 18, 2018