Stone Mountain South Face Rock Climbing
Routes in Stone Mountain South Face
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Adrift T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Caveman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Entrance Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Fantastic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Fleet Feet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Great Brown Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hook and Bladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Last Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Orange Blossom Special T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Purple Daze T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pyromania T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Requiem to a Dream T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Saturday Night Live T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sufficiently Breathless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Teflon Trip T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Dreams T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Elevation: | 500 ft |
GPS: |
36.3916, -81.0473 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 204,278 total · 1,026/month |
Shared By: | saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
Description
The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.
All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.
All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.
Getting There
After entering the park, drive past the visitor center (which will be on your right) about two miles down the main park road to the Lower Trailhead parking on your left, and park. Start the walk in, and turn right at the fork (follow the sign for the Hutchinson Homestead), and keep on the main trail until you can see the historical homestead on your left (several restored buildings). From here, either go through or around the farmstead site to a trailhead in the woods to climber's right of the homestead, where you'll find a small climber's registration box. Go up the small climber's trail to the rock.
Classic Climbing Routes at Stone Mountain South Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
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● The Great Arch |
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5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches | ||
● No Alternative |
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5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches | ||
● U Slot |
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5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad | ||
● Block Route |
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5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad | ||
● The Pulpit |
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches | ||
● Dirty Crack |
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
● Yardarm |
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 3 pitches | ||
● Mercury's Lead |
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Sport 2 pitches | ||
● Grand Funk Railroad |
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches | ||
● Great White Way |
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches | ||
● Electric Boobs |
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5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches | ||
● Fantastic |
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5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches | ||
● Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go… |
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5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Rainy Day Women |
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5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches | ||
● Fleet Feet |
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5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches |
Weather Averages
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Days w Precip
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Prime Climbing Season
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Photos
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Guidebooks (2)
Featured Guidebook:
Carolina Rocks: The Piedmont
Author: Erica Lineberry Pub…
2015, 288 pages
The Piedmont region of North Carolina contains four distinct climbing are…
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