Elevation: 500 ft
GPS: 36.392, -81.047 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 167,924 total · 931/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

Description

The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.

All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.

Getting There

After entering the park, drive past the visitor center (which will be on your right) about two miles down the main park road to the Lower Trailhead parking on your left, and park. Start the walk in, and turn right at the fork (follow the sign for the Hutchinson Homestead), and keep on the main trail until you can see the historical homestead on your left (several restored buildings). From here, either go through or around the farmstead site to a trailhead in the woods to climber's right of the homestead, where you'll find a small climber's registration box. Go up the small climber's trail to the rock.

54 Total Climbs

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Location: Stone Mountain South Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Stone Mountain South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 318
The Great Arch
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 115
No Alternative
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 101
U Slot
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 151
Block Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 89
The Pulpit
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Dirty Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 40
Yardarm
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 43
Grand Funk Railroad
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 30
Mercury's Lead
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
Great White Way
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 27
Electric Boobs
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 19
Fantastic
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 22
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 28
Rainy Day Women
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Fleet Feet
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Arch
 318
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
No Alternative
 115
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
U Slot
 101
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Block Route
 151
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
The Pulpit
 89
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Dirty Crack
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Yardarm
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Grand Funk Railroad
 43
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Mercury's Lead
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Great White Way
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Electric Boobs
 27
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Fantastic
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go…
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Rainy Day Women
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Fleet Feet
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Stone Mountain South Face »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Southwest
Sunny Roughly 10am to 3pm during high season
6am
8pm

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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