Elevation: 500 ft
GPS: 36.392, -81.047 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 136,369 total · 816/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006 with 4 Suggestions
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry
Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

Description

The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.

All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.

Getting There

After entering the park, drive past the visitor center (which will be on your right) about two miles down the main park road to the Lower Trailhead parking on your left, and park. Start the walk in, and turn right at the fork (follow the sign for the Hutchinson Homestead), and keep on the main trail until you can see the historical homestead on your left (several restored buildings). From here, either go through or around the farmstead site to a trailhead in the woods to climber's right of the homestead, where you'll find a small climber's registration box. Go up the small climber's trail to the rock.

54 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Stone Mountain South Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Stone Mountain South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 294
The Great Arch
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 112
No Alternative
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 95
U Slot
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 140
Block Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 86
The Pulpit
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Dirty Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 39
Yardarm
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 41
Grand Funk Railroad
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 30
Mercury's Lead
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Great White Way
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 26
Electric Boobs
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 19
Fantastic
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 20
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 24
Rainy Day Women
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 19
Storm in a Teacup
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Arch
 294
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
No Alternative
 112
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
U Slot
 95
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Block Route
 140
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
The Pulpit
 86
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Dirty Crack
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Yardarm
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Grand Funk Railroad
 41
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Mercury's Lead
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Great White Way
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Electric Boobs
 26
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Fantastic
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go…
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Rainy Day Women
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Storm in a Teacup
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Stone Mountain South Face »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Southwest
Sunny Roughly 10am to 3pm during high season
6am
8pm

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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