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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 500 ft
GPS: 36.392, -81.047 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry
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Description

The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.

All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.

Getting There

After entering the park, drive past the office about two miles down the main park road to a parking lot on the left. Follow a short trail up to an old restored farm and out into a meadow below the face of the mountain, then hike up to the wall that forms the access to the tree ledge where many of the face climbs begin.

52 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stone Mountain South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Great Arch
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
No Alternative
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
U Slot
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Block Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Pulpit
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yardarm
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Grand Funk Railroad
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mercury's Lead
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great White Way
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fantastic
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Electric Boobs
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rainy Day Women
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Storm in a Teacup
Sport 3 pitches
The Great Arch 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
No Alternative 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
U Slot 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Block Route 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
The Pulpit 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Dirty Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Yardarm 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Grand Funk Railroad 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Mercury's Lead 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Great White Way 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Fantastic 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Electric Boobs 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go… 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Rainy Day Women 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Storm in a Teacup 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport 3 pitches
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Weather Averages

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DaveBaker
Durham, NC
DaveBaker   Durham, NC
The guidebook link is incorrect -- updated link is here mountaineersbooks.org/Selec… Jun 27, 2016
bradley white   Bend
Climbed here in May, 1988 with Jim Shimberg and agreed, it does get greasy humidity on the rock. Run outs were WTF with old 1/4" hardware bolts. no guide book and we did two, probably 5.9's and the classic arch. Didn't think much about grade when I was going to hit the ground after the second bolt. The bolts were spaced reasonably, meaning there was a slope bump to have a stance to hammer a hole in the rock. very rusty crap in 1988 and N.C.N.F. would not permit retro-bolting or doing any new bolted routes. Jim and I thought eventually climbers would be killed here by failing anchors. Glad we got down rappelling and really relieved Stone Mountain was face lifted. there were dozens of goats there. May 16, 2014

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