Elevation: 500 ft
GPS: 36.3916, -81.0473
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

Description

The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.

All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.

Getting There

After entering the park, drive past the visitor center (which will be on your right) about two miles down the main park road to the Lower Trailhead parking on your left, and park. Start the walk in, and turn right at the fork (follow the sign for the Hutchinson Homestead), and keep on the main trail until you can see the historical homestead on your left (several restored buildings). From here, either go through or around the farmstead site to a trailhead in the woods to climber's right of the homestead, where you'll find a small climber's registration box. Go up the small climber's trail to the rock.

63 Total Climbs

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Location: Stone Mountain South Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Stone Mountain South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 344
The Great Arch
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 127
No Alternative
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 107
U Slot
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 160
Block Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 92
The Pulpit
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Dirty Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 41
Yardarm
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 30
Mercury's Lead
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 50
Grand Funk Railroad
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Great White Way
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 30
Electric Boobs
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 24
Fantastic
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 22
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 29
Rainy Day Women
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Fleet Feet
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Arch
 344
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
No Alternative
 127
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
U Slot
 107
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Block Route
 160
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
The Pulpit
 92
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Dirty Crack
 57
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Yardarm
 41
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Mercury's Lead
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Grand Funk Railroad
 50
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Great White Way
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Electric Boobs
 30
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Fantastic
 24
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go…
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Rainy Day Women
 29
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Fleet Feet
 25
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Stone Mountain South Face »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Southwest
Sunny Roughly 10am to 3pm during high season
6am
8pm

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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