Elevation: 500 ft
GPS: 36.392, -81.047 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 102,120 total · 675/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006 with improvements by Sean Cobourn
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

Description

The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.

All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.

Getting There

After entering the park, drive past the office about two miles down the main park road to a parking lot on the left. Follow a short trail up to an old restored farm and out into a meadow below the face of the mountain, then hike up to the wall that forms the access to the tree ledge where many of the face climbs begin.

53 Total Climbs

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Location: Stone Mountain South Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Stone Mountain South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 273
The Great Arch
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 108
No Alternative
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 87
U Slot
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 129
Block Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 82
The Pulpit
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Dirty Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 38
Yardarm
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 28
Mercury's Lead
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 40
Grand Funk Railroad
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 45
Great White Way
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 18
Fantastic
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 26
Electric Boobs
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 20
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 21
Rainy Day Women
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 18
Storm in a Teacup
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Arch
 273
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
No Alternative
 108
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
U Slot
 87
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Block Route
 129
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
The Pulpit
 82
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Dirty Crack
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Yardarm
 38
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Mercury's Lead
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Grand Funk Railroad
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Great White Way
 45
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Fantastic
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Electric Boobs
 26
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go…
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Rainy Day Women
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Storm in a Teacup
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Stone Mountain South Face »

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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
bradley white   Bend
Climbed here in May, 1988 with Jim Shimberg and agreed, it does get greasy humidity on the rock. Run outs were WTF with old 1/4" hardware bolts. no guide book and we did two, probably 5.9's and the classic arch. Didn't think much about grade when I was going to hit the ground after the second bolt. The bolts were spaced reasonably, meaning there was a slope bump to have a stance to hammer a hole in the rock. very rusty crap in 1988 and N.C.N.F. would not permit retro-bolting or doing any new bolted routes. Jim and I thought eventually climbers would be killed here by failing anchors. Glad we got down rappelling and really relieved Stone Mountain was face lifted. there were dozens of goats there. May 16, 2014
DaveBaker
Durham, NC
DaveBaker   Durham, NC
The guidebook link is incorrect -- updated link is here mountaineersbooks.org/Selec… Jun 27, 2016
There's huge tree that is about to topple over on tree ledge about 15 ft left of no alternative. Apr 18, 2018