Elevation: 3,738 ft
GPS: 35.305, -82.795 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 72,868 total · 546/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009 with 3 Suggestions
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry
Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

Description

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.

Getting There

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.

There is a gate at the start of the gravel road, The gate is locked from sometime in late Fall until Spring (late March?). When the gate is locked, one has to park at the Fish Hatchery ("Pisgah Center for Wildlife Education"). The hatchery has a huge parking lot with drinking water, bathrooms, and lots of trout). This adds about 2.5 miles of uphill walking to reach the kiosk and the approach trail.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nose Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 217
Sundial Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 342
The Nose
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 63
Peregrine
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 19
Sensemilia Sunset
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 40
Hyperbola
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 42
Dum Dee Dum Dum
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 30
Hyperbola Direct Start
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Wrench In My Pocket
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Southern Crescent
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sundial Crack
 217
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 4 pitches
The Nose
 342
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Peregrine
 63
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Sensemilia Sunset
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Hyperbola
 40
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Dum Dee Dum Dum
 42
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Hyperbola Direct Start
 30
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Wrench In My Pocket
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Southern Crescent
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Nose Area »

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