Description

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.

Getting There

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.

There is a gate at the start of the gravel road, The gate is locked from sometime in late Fall until Spring (late March?). When the gate is locked, one has to park at the Fish Hatchery ("Pisgah Center for Wildlife Education"). The hatchery has a huge parking lot with drinking water, bathrooms, and lots of trout). This adds about 2.5 miles of uphill walking to reach the kiosk and the approach trail.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nose Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 198
Sundial Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 301
The Nose
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 59
Peregrine
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 18
Sensemilia Sunset
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 39
Hyperbola
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 39
Dum Dee Dum Dum
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Hyperbola Direct Start
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Southern Crescent
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sundial Crack
 198
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 4 pitches
The Nose
 301
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Peregrine
 59
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Sensemilia Sunset
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Hyperbola
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Dum Dee Dum Dum
 39
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Hyperbola Direct Start
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Southern Crescent
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Nose Area »

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