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Nose Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Nose Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Crescendo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Dum Dee Dum Dum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Hyperbola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Hyperbola Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Last Day In The Rainforest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Linear Progression T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Peregrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sensemilia Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Southern Crescent T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sundial Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Wrench In My Pocket S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	3,738 ft	1,139 m
GPS:	35.30474, -82.79538 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009 · Updates
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See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.

Getting There

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.

There is a gate at the start of the gravel road, The gate is locked from sometime in late Fall until Spring (late March?). When the gate is locked, one has to park at the Fish Hatchery ("Pisgah Center for Wildlife Education"). The hatchery has a huge parking lot with drinking water, bathrooms, and lots of trout). This adds about 2.5 miles of uphill walking to reach the kiosk and the approach trail.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nose Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 299 ● Sundial Crack Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 480 ● The Nose Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 77 ● Peregrine Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R 21 ● Sensemilia Sunset Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 48 ● Hyperbola Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 58 ● Dum Dee Dum Dum Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 43 ● Hyperbola Direct Start Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 13 ● Wrench In My Pocket Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 4 ● Crescendo Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 7 ● Southern Crescent Trad 2 pitches