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Elevation: 3,217 ft
GPS: 35.2948, -82.78817
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier
Warning Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Located near Brevard, Looking Glass has a huge range of climbing opportunities. Aid climbers will find grade IV and V lines reminiscent of Yosemite on the North Side; free trad climbers flock to the famous "eyebrows" of the Nose Area and Sun Wall.

Route development on Looking Glass granite began in the mid-60s, with signature routes like The Nose. The area was little-known except among the locals in the early days; pioneers of the day included Steve Longenecker, Jim McEver and especially Bob Mitchell. The mid-70s brought another wave of first ascents and more notice from outside the area; over the next decade or so, routes were put up by climbers like Jeep Gaskin, Bob Rotert, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuermann, Diff Ritchie and Chis Caldwell.

Climbing at Looking Glass is best during the fall and winter months. The North Side and Hidden Wall sections are shady enough for summer climbing. Because it's located in the Pisgah National Forest, camping is plentiful in the area.

Getting There Suggest change

Looking Glass is located near Brevard, NC. Take US 276 northeast from Brevard into Pisgah National Forest, then continue about five miles to the intersection with FR 475; take a left here. After a few miles on 475, a fork will appear. The right-hand fork will be a gravel road labeled FR 475B. Take the right fork and look for a parking lot with the sign for Slickrock Falls Trail. This is parking for the South Side area of Looking Glass; for the Nose Area and Sun Wall, continue almost two miles further to the Sunwall Trail parking lot. Parking for the North Side and Hidden Wall is in a pullout roughly a quarter-mile past the Sunwall Trail.

170 Total Climbs

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Location: Looking Glass Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Looking Glass Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 285
Sundial Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 455
The Nose
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 48
Hyperbola
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 113
Titties and Beer (aka "World's…
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 178
The Seal
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 67
Dinkus Dog
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
 109
Invisible Airways
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
 99
Creatures of Waste
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 42
Hyperbola Direct Start
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 88
The Womb
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 33
The Odyssey
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 66
Cornflake Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 58
Safari Jive
Trad 2 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
 30
Waste Not, Want Not
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
 59
The Glass Menagerie
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sundial Crack Nose Area
 285
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 4 pitches
The Nose Nose Area
 455
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Hyperbola Nose Area
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Titties and Beer (aka "Wor… Sun Wall
 113
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
The Seal N Side
 178
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Dinkus Dog S Side
 67
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Invisible Airways N Side
 109
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Creatures of Waste N Side
 99
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Hyperbola Direct Start Nose Area
 42
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Womb N Side
 88
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
The Odyssey Sun Wall
 33
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Cornflake Crack N Side
 66
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Safari Jive N Side
 58
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Waste Not, Want Not N Side
 30
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R Trad
The Glass Menagerie N Side
 59
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Trad 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Looking Glass Rock »

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