Elevation: 3,217 ft
GPS: 35.295, -82.788 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 669,638 total · 3,633/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry
Access Issue: 2021 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details

Description

Located near Brevard, Looking Glass has a huge range of climbing opportunities. Aid climbers will find grade IV and V lines reminiscent of Yosemite on the North Side; free trad climbers flock to the famous "eyebrows" of the Nose Area and Sun Wall.

Route development on Looking Glass granite began in the mid-60s, with signature routes like The Nose. The area was little-known except among the locals in the early days; pioneers of the day included Steve Longenecker, Jim McEver and especially Bob Mitchell. The mid-70s brought another wave of first ascents and more notice from outside the area; over the next decade or so, routes were put up by climbers like Jeep Gaskin, Bob Rotert, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuermann, Diff Ritchie and Chis Caldwell.

Climbing at Looking Glass is best during the fall and winter months. The North Side and Hidden Wall sections are shady enough for summer climbing. Because it's located in the Pisgah National Forest, camping is plentiful in the area.

Getting There

Looking Glass is located near Brevard, NC. Take US 276 northeast from Brevard into Pisgah National Forest, then continue about five miles to the intersection with FR 475; take a left here. After a few miles on 475, a fork will appear. The right-hand fork will be a gravel road labeled FR 475B. Take the right fork and look for a parking lot with the sign for Slickrock Falls Trail. This is parking for the South Side area of Looking Glass; for the Nose Area and Sun Wall, continue almost two miles further to the Sunwall Trail parking lot. Parking for the North Side and Hidden Wall is in a pullout roughly a quarter-mile past the Sunwall Trail.

156 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Looking Glass Rock Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Looking Glass Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 228
Second Coming
Trad 2 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 239
Sundial Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 379
The Nose
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 167
Gemini Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 87
First Return
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 178
Rat's Ass
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 82
Unfinished Concerto
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 97
Titties and Beer (aka "World's…
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 159
The Seal
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 59
Dinkus Dog
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
 90
Invisible Airwaves
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
 76
Creatures of Waste
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 82
The Womb
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 54
Cornflake Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
 52
The Glass Menagerie
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Second Coming S Side
 228
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Sundial Crack Nose Area
 239
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 4 pitches
The Nose Nose Area
 379
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Gemini Crack S Side
 167
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
First Return S Side
 87
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Rat's Ass S Side
 178
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Unfinished Concerto S Side
 82
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Titties and Beer (aka "Wor… Sun Wall
 97
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
The Seal N Side
 159
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Dinkus Dog S Side
 59
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Invisible Airwaves N Side
 90
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Creatures of Waste N Side
 76
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
The Womb N Side
 82
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Cornflake Crack N Side
 54
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
The Glass Menagerie N Side
 52
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Trad 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Looking Glass Rock »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos