Elevation: 3,217 ft
GPS: 35.2948, -82.78817
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 766,083 total · 3,861/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry
Access Issue: 2021 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details

Description

Located near Brevard, Looking Glass has a huge range of climbing opportunities. Aid climbers will find grade IV and V lines reminiscent of Yosemite on the North Side; free trad climbers flock to the famous "eyebrows" of the Nose Area and Sun Wall.

Route development on Looking Glass granite began in the mid-60s, with signature routes like The Nose. The area was little-known except among the locals in the early days; pioneers of the day included Steve Longenecker, Jim McEver and especially Bob Mitchell. The mid-70s brought another wave of first ascents and more notice from outside the area; over the next decade or so, routes were put up by climbers like Jeep Gaskin, Bob Rotert, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuermann, Diff Ritchie and Chis Caldwell.

Climbing at Looking Glass is best during the fall and winter months. The North Side and Hidden Wall sections are shady enough for summer climbing. Because it's located in the Pisgah National Forest, camping is plentiful in the area.

Getting There

Looking Glass is located near Brevard, NC. Take US 276 northeast from Brevard into Pisgah National Forest, then continue about five miles to the intersection with FR 475; take a left here. After a few miles on 475, a fork will appear. The right-hand fork will be a gravel road labeled FR 475B. Take the right fork and look for a parking lot with the sign for Slickrock Falls Trail. This is parking for the South Side area of Looking Glass; for the Nose Area and Sun Wall, continue almost two miles further to the Sunwall Trail parking lot. Parking for the North Side and Hidden Wall is in a pullout roughly a quarter-mile past the Sunwall Trail.

164 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Looking Glass Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 239
Second Coming
Trad 2 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 260
Sundial Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 414
The Nose
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 181
Gemini Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 91
First Return
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 184
Rat's Ass
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 84
Unfinished Concerto
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 104
Titties and Beer (aka "World's…
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 163
The Seal
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 61
Dinkus Dog
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
 98
Invisible Airways
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
 88
Creatures of Waste
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 85
The Womb
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 58
Cornflake Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
 56
The Glass Menagerie
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Second Coming S Side
 239
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Sundial Crack Nose Area
 260
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 4 pitches
The Nose Nose Area
 414
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Gemini Crack S Side
 181
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
First Return S Side
 91
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Rat's Ass S Side
 184
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Unfinished Concerto S Side
 84
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Titties and Beer (aka "Wor… Sun Wall
 104
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
The Seal N Side
 163
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Dinkus Dog S Side
 61
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Invisible Airways N Side
 98
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Creatures of Waste N Side
 88
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
The Womb N Side
 85
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Cornflake Crack N Side
 58
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
The Glass Menagerie N Side
 56
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Trad 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Looking Glass Rock »

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