Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Located near Brevard, Looking Glass has a huge range of climbing opportunities. Aid climbers will find grade IV and V lines reminiscent of Yosemite on the North Side; free trad climbers flock to the famous "eyebrows" of the Nose Area and Sun Wall.

Route development on Looking Glass granite began in the mid-60s, with signature routes like The Nose. The area was little-known except among the locals in the early days; pioneers of the day included Steve Longenecker, Jim McEver and especially Bob Mitchell. The mid-70s brought another wave of first ascents and more notice from outside the area; over the next decade or so, routes were put up by climbers like Jeep Gaskin, Bob Rotert, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuermann, Diff Ritchie and Chis Caldwell.

Climbing at Looking Glass is best during the fall and winter months. The North Side and Hidden Wall sections are shady enough for summer climbing. Because it's located in the Pisgah National Forest, camping is plentiful in the area.

Getting There

Looking Glass is located near Brevard, NC. Take US 276 northeast from Brevard into Pisgah National Forest, then continue about five miles to the intersection with FR 475; take a left here. After a few miles on 475, the road turns to gravel and splits. Take the right fork and look for a parking lot with the sign for Slickrock Falls Trail. This is parking for the South Side area of Looking Glass; for the Nose Area and Sun Wall, continue almost two miles further to the Sunwall Trail parking lot. Parking for the North Side and Hidden Wall is in a pullout roughly a quarter-mile past the Sunwall Trail.

135 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Looking Glass Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 195
Second Coming
Trad 2 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 198
Sundial Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 106
Bloody Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 301
The Nose
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 144
Gemini Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 77
First Return
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 161
Rat's Ass
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 74
Unfinished Concerto
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 85
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Ha…
Trad 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 125
The Seal
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 48
Dinkus Dog
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
 72
Invisible Airwaves
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
 64
Creatures of Waste
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 72
The Womb
Trad 3 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
 44
The Glass Menagerie
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Second Coming S Side
 195
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Sundial Crack Nose Area
 198
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Bloody Crack S Side
 106
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
The Nose Nose Area
 301
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Gemini Crack S Side
 144
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
First Return S Side
 77
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Rat's Ass S Side
 161
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Unfinished Concerto S Side
 74
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Titties & Beer (aka "World… Sun Wall
 85
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
The Seal N Side
 125
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Dinkus Dog S Side
 48
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Invisible Airwaves N Side
 72
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Creatures of Waste N Side
 64
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
The Womb N Side
 72
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
The Glass Menagerie N Side
 44
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Trad 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Looking Glass Rock »

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Photos

reddirt  
so you're wondering, what the hell are ^^eyebrows^^ ?? Dec 13, 2006
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
That's a very handy link, reddirtgirl -- and from a LG pioneer, no less! Dec 18, 2006
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
I realize that LG is popular, but I've always wondered why more people don't spend days or weeks at a time climbing here. It is perfect, really. Free camping in the Natl Forest, 20 minutes from Brevard where you can get excellent food and beer. Go to Looking Glass Outfitters for beta and partners, Pescado's for burritos and wireless, and the Square Root for beer.

I haven't found showers yet... Oct 27, 2011
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
Shower's can be had for a nominal fee from Davidson River Campground if you are not staying there. If camping there, they're free, but I find the National Forest more appealing as well. Oct 31, 2011
Caleb Spradlin
Asheville, NC
Caleb Spradlin   Asheville, NC
So I was wondering if there are any routes that top out somewhere near the trail at the top? Sep 9, 2013
Brad Caldwell
Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Brad Caldwell   Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
You can make your way to the Tourist Trail (Looking Glass Trail) by topping out most routes from the Nose area all the way over to the South Face. The Nose tops out near the terminus of the trail and others may take a little more wandering to find the trail. If you're planning on walking off...dont! The tourist trail takes you to a different parking area from the Nose or South Face and would end up being another 5 or so mile hike to get back to your car. Sep 10, 2013
Orlena Tilton
Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Orlena Tilton   Murfreesboro, Tennessee
A few pieces of advice, from my recent experience at Looking Glass:

1st: There is wilderness camping at the area for South Side, near the parking lot. No need to pay $22 for a campsite, or to stay at a hotel if camping is full.

2nd: You should, at a minimum, have one 70m rope...2 is better if you are doing multi-pitch

3rd: This climbing area is MADE for tri-cams!!! =)

May 27, 2014
For a detailed first hand account by Steve Longenecker of early ascents of the Nose, the Womb, and other great NC classics, take a look here:
grounduppublishing.com/?p=978 Jun 14, 2015
I dont have any real ideas which areas are still open despite the falcon closures. I saw a lift posted on the CCC website but its from 2014, does anyone know if that lift gets posted every year or if the 2014 lift is effective through the present? Apr 1, 2016
I see most of the climbs listed as 'standard LG rack', but nowhere on this page do a see a detailed list of what that entails, am i missing it or is it something that is generally known by climbers in the area?
i'm from virginia, but ill be coming down to start school at brevard in the fall and would like to know which pieces i'll need.
thanks! Jun 6, 2016
Regarding the rack question, I pack a single set of BD stoppers (3-13), doubles on 00-2 Metolius cams (or equivalent/TCUs/BC C3s/aliens, etc), singles .3, .4, 3 & 4 C4/X4 Camalots, doubles C4/X4 .5 - 2, and tricams to #2. There are a few routes where it's nice to have double #3s and maybe a #5 cam like Odyssey or DumDeDemDem. Opinions may vary.

Edit: and for runners/draws, leave the sport draws at home. longer quick draws and alpine draws are the way to go. Jun 7, 2016
I lost a Casio Pathfinder Watch (green/black) at the base of the Nose tuesday the 26th july. Please message me if you happened upon it…as I have been late to work twice since I lost it. Thank you Aug 1, 2016
Hey
Im coming to the Brevard/Asheville area later this week (Wednesday through Friday October 11 through 13). 5.10 sport and moderate grade trad leader, as well as up to v5 boulder looking for someone to climb with. Will have pads for bouldering but not much gear for sport/trad. Oct 5, 2017