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Elevation: 3,217 ft 981 m
GPS: 35.2948, -82.78817
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Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier
Warning Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Located near Brevard, Looking Glass has a huge range of climbing opportunities. Aid climbers will find grade IV and V lines reminiscent of Yosemite on the North Side; free trad climbers flock to the famous "eyebrows" of the Nose Area and Sun Wall.

Route development on Looking Glass granite began in the mid-60s, with signature routes like The Nose. The area was little-known except among the locals in the early days; pioneers of the day included Steve Longenecker, Jim McEver and especially Bob Mitchell. The mid-70s brought another wave of first ascents and more notice from outside the area; over the next decade or so, routes were put up by climbers like Jeep Gaskin, Bob Rotert, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuermann, Diff Ritchie and Chis Caldwell.

Climbing at Looking Glass is best during the fall and winter months. The North Side and Hidden Wall sections are shady enough for summer climbing. Because it's located in the Pisgah National Forest, camping is plentiful in the area.

Getting There Suggest change

Looking Glass is located near Brevard, NC. Take US 276 northeast from Brevard into Pisgah National Forest, then continue about five miles to the intersection with FR 475; take a left here. After a few miles on 475, a fork will appear. The right-hand fork will be a gravel road labeled FR 475B. Take the right fork and look for a parking lot with the sign for Slickrock Falls Trail. This is parking for the South Side area of Looking Glass; for the Nose Area and Sun Wall, continue almost two miles further to the Sunwall Trail parking lot. Parking for the North Side and Hidden Wall is in a pullout roughly a quarter-mile past the Sunwall Trail.

198 Total Climbs

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Location: Looking Glass Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Looking Glass Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 322
● Sundial Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 531
● The Nose
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 51
● Hyperbola
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 128
● Titties and Beer (aka "World's…
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 197
● The Seal
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 74
● Dinkus Dog
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
 116
● Invisible Airways
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
 111
● Creatures of Waste
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 96
● The Womb
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 51
● Hyperbola Direct Start
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 38
● The Odyssey
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 75
● Cornflake Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 67
● Safari Jive
Trad 2 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
 35
● Waste Not, Want Not
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
 67
● The Glass Menagerie
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Sundial Crack Nose Area
 322
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 4 pitches
● The Nose Nose Area
 531
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
● Hyperbola Nose Area
 51
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
● Titties and Beer (aka "Wor… Sun Wall
 128
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
● The Seal N Side
 197
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
● Dinkus Dog S Side
 74
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Invisible Airways N Side
 116
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
● Creatures of Waste N Side
 111
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
● The Womb N Side
 96
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
● Hyperbola Direct Start Nose Area
 51
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● The Odyssey Sun Wall
 38
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
● Cornflake Crack N Side
 75
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
● Safari Jive N Side
 67
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
● Waste Not, Want Not N Side
 35
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R Trad
● The Glass Menagerie N Side
 67
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Trad 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Looking Glass Rock »

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