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Routes in Nose Area

Crescendo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dum Dee Dum Dum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hyperbola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Hyperbola Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Linear Progression T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peregrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sensemilia Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Southern Crescent T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sundial Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,115 total, 34/month
Shared By: MOConnor on Nov 24, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

The direct start is a good variation to the original if you don't feel like 5.9 R slab climbing. Step up on the ledge next to the tree. Pull onto the face up to the first bolt on pretty good holds. You can sling the tree, a flake, or get a bomber yellow #2 C3 in before the first bolt. Pull onto a creaky flake (feels bad but it will hold) Make some hard moves to clip the 2nb bolt and get to the sloper rail. Delicate climbing up to a little horn which feels like a jug at this point get a good shake and work up the side pulls. Bust out right to a good gaston (you can get a 000 C3 under the flake but I'm not sure it would hold, more of a mental piece) Pull over the bulge on bad slopers and worse feet then make your way back to the left to a really fun finger crack and meet up with the original route.

Location

110 yards right of Sundial Crack.

Protection

2 bolts, standard Looking Glass rack.

Photos

Jon Melly
Washington, District of Columb
Jon Melly   Washington, District of Columb
i fell on the 000 it held lol 1 day ago
My favorite route in Pisgah. But also one of the scariest. I agree with monkeybog...big person panties. And maybe a diaper. Height is a bonus, but not a necessity. It's not pumpy, just gotta put those NC slab skills to use. Stand there. Relax. Believe. Feb 23, 2017
CDC
CDC  

FA was Eddie Beggon , Mike Artz and Chris Caldwell. Dec 24, 2016
munkeybog Sox
Columbia, SC
  5.11a
munkeybog Sox   Columbia, SC
  5.11a
one could whip on this safely... but who the bleep wants to. Good gawd what a great line. Just put on your big boy/girl panties when stepping over the flake after the 2nd bolt. And sure as Mr. Caldwell points out, passive gear is less likely to explode the flake, but the durn things flexes when you undercling it. Just stick with the bigboy panties. Oct 24, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
I would suggest placing a nut below the first bolt at the base of the flake instead of a cam. A nut will be more likely to hold and not break the flake. Don't place pro that relies on expansion to hold when it is in something loose or questionable. Jul 28, 2013
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
 
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
 
P2 has a shitty rusty bolt visible from the P1 anchors. Decent gear and fun moves right off the anchor 5.9+ up to a gear belay in an eyebrow above the bulge ~ 80-100 ft. P3 slab it out in a groove trending towards the nose anchor (up and climbers left) for a full 240 ft (70m rope doesnt quite make the anchor but gets you to 5.1 terrain) 5.6/7 ish. Jun 2, 2013