All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > Nose Area

Hyperbola Direct Start

Name: Hyperbola Direct Start
Rating: 3.9

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Nose Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Crescendo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Dum Dee Dum Dum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Hyperbola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Hyperbola Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Last Day In The Rainforest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Linear Progression T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Peregrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sensemilia Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Southern Crescent T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sundial Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Wrench In My Pocket S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS:	35.30474, -82.79538
FA:	Eddie Beggon , Mike Artz and Chris Caldwell.
Page Views:	4,531 total · 29/month
Shared By:	Mike O'Connor on Nov 24, 2012 · Updates
Admins:	Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The direct start is a good variation to the original if you don't feel like 5.9 R slab climbing. Step up on the ledge next to the tree. Pull onto the face up to the first bolt on pretty good holds. You can sling the tree, a flake, or get a bomber yellow #2 C3 in before the first bolt. Pull onto a creaky flake (feels bad but it will hold) Make some hard moves to clip the 2nb bolt and get to the sloper rail. Delicate climbing up to a little horn which feels like a jug at this point get a good shake and work up the side pulls. Bust out right to a good gaston (you can get a 000 C3 under the flake but I'm not sure it would hold, more of a mental piece) Pull over the bulge on bad slopers and worse feet then make your way back to the left to a really fun finger crack and meet up with the original route.