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Routes in Nose Area

Crescendo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dum Dee Dum Dum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hyperbola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Hyperbola Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Linear Progression T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peregrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sensemilia Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Southern Crescent T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sundial Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Trad, 465 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Peter White and Whitney Heurmann ca. 1996
Page Views: 2,320 total · 17/month
Shared By: Brent Roaten on Apr 5, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

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On one of my first trips to Looking Glass sans guide book and inexperienced with runout slab climbing, I ran into a local who recommended this new route as a good 5.9. It was the perfect sandbag and quite memorable.
Begin about 50 yards to the right of Sundial Crack. The first 50-60 feet is a sea of unprotectable eyebrows (~5.8) ending on a ledge. I would recommend belaying here but didn't the first time I climbed it resulting in some serious rope drag. Pull over an easy, well protected bulge above the ledge. Veer to the right and follow the path of least resistance to a crack which takes good gear. From the crack, head back slightly left and up towards the anchors. As I recall the last 20 feet is pretty hairy unprotected climbing that left me feeling nauseous. I went for it and to my relief found an unusual "thank god" hold just below the anchors that wasn't visible from below. If you are not a well seasoned Looking Glass slabmaster, I would not recommend this as a first 5.9...or even a second or third for that matter!
Per the guide book the route continues on for another 3 pitches:
P2: 5.9+, 150 ft with a bolted anchor
P3: 5.7, 150 ft also bolted anchor
P4: 5.5, 165 ft; descend as for the nose


The route begins about 50 yards to the right of Sundial. The start was rather inobvious and the only real landmarks that I recall are the anchors at the top of the route.


Not much. Bolted Anchors on pitches 1-3. Rap the nose route. Bring an extra pair of shorts.


- No Photos -
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
We inadvertently got on this on my first trip to Looking Glass. It became apparhent that I was in over my head when I looked below at the two crappy placements and 30' of runout down to the last piece. Another 30' and one 00 TCU placement found me at the anchors of P1 - shaken. I had never climbied slab or granite. This is all to say that P1 is run out! Jun 20, 2007
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
After talking to Phil at LGO, it seems the best start is right next to Sundial Crack. Then you should shoot up and right for the scoop. I only learned this after creating my own story, quite similar to the two told here. We started below the slings on the first pitch of this route. That variation and the amount of wandering I would definitely give it an R rating, but Phil says its a lot more tame from the Sundial start. Otherwise, the climbing movement was great on this route! Double TCU's also come in handy. Jun 27, 2010
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
Did this route again from the recommended start at Sundial Crack. The route was a much better experience the original straight up to the anchors line. The move through the bulge was very exciting and the route is well protected. A single rack with a rack of tri-cams is all that is needed. Started up Sundial and hit the big horizontal. Took this to the right a bit, then bee lined it through the groove in the bulge straight to the anchor. The last moves take some circumventing, but otherwise its a straight line from groove to anchors. The entire route description above is incorrect. May 21, 2011
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
P2 is another good pitch to finish this climb off. If you made it through P1, P2 shouldn't be too much trouble. Start straight up over the anchor and get a piece for your second. Move up and right slightly following the easiest eyebrows that take gear. About 30' up clip the bolt. Start making some friction moves getting a good distance away from the bolt. Find the next piece of gear just left of the bolt line. Plug it and make another small run. Once your getting gear again the angle eases all the way to the anchor. Rap twice straight down. Mar 28, 2012
munkeybog Sox
Columbia, SC
  5.9+ PG13
munkeybog Sox   Columbia, SC
  5.9+ PG13
On a crowded day, I just launched off into SS inadvertently. But there is gear if you stay close Sundial and angle towards the bolts. The bulge is "intimidating" (translation: don't blow it, or at minimum make sure that I don't have to witness it).

Everyone...EVERY dang 'ole Soul that I talk to about this route has either avoided it, been sandbaggedly talked into it, or "accidentally" launched into the abyss. I fall into the 3rd category. Oct 24, 2013
Columbia, SC
  5.9+ PG13
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
  5.9+ PG13
i guess i fall into the category of people who get on this climb because its good. By far the best route on the nose that i've done to date. Heady in spots but is no worse than PG13 -- gear is bomber when its there.

P1: Definitely best to start over by sundial and angle into the bulge (takes a yellow tcu, yello/blue offset -- save a purple tcu for the thin eyebrow right before you pull some moves). Angle up and right towards the bolted anchor that you can see from the ground. P2 engages you most of the way with slabby moves above pro and some runouts pretty much straight up off the anchor and gently veer to the right after the bolt, towards the anchors. I've done this route at least four times and everytime i find it engaging and enjoyable -- 5.9 for the 5.10 climber will allow you to fully enjoy this. P3 dash up to the top of the nose for a quick view or rap down from P2 anchors.

Gear: leave the nuts on the ground -- cams/tricams through #3 with doubles in the finger-thin hand sizes. Double ropes helpful or a bunch of slings. The gear tends to come in clumps with a few pieces with in 20-30 ft then followed by a sparsity of gear for a while. Take your time and read the rock Dec 20, 2013
Rick Carpenter
Marion, NC
  5.9+ R
Rick Carpenter   Marion, NC
  5.9+ R
Just go straight up there isn't a real runout off the ground and the pro is good. Nov 7, 2016

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