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Routes in Nose Area

Crescendo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dum Dee Dum Dum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hyperbola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Hyperbola Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Linear Progression T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peregrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sensemilia Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Southern Crescent T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sundial Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 430 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Mitchell, Will Fulton - 1972
Page Views: 22,779 total, 169/month
Shared By: reddirt on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Although it's not a long sustained splitter crack, this is a really nice route, especially if the Nose is occupied. The crack actually runs for only ~20 ft on the 3rd pitch and is flaring, but protectable. The Lambert/Shull guide rates it 5.8, but I thought it was really mellow for the grade.

This description is meant to supplement the Lambert/Shull book. Ratings are from the book.

Start: Pretty much where the approach trail meets the rock. Relatively short approach.

P1: 5.5 80' Climb up and stay right of bulge, then move left to anchors. Either this pitch is underrated or the next pitch is overrated, as they didn't feel that different in difficulty.

P2. 5.8 100' At start, look up & right to anchors at top of 2nd pitch. Aim for those. Plenty of gear options.

P3: 5.7 120' If climbing on 50m ropes, climb more than 120' to ensure enough rope for last pitch. There are no fixed anchors for the end of this pitch.

P4: 5.6 150' Move up & left, aiming for the top of The Nose.

Descent: same raps as nose at the base of a distinct downward pointing flake. Using two 50m ropes rap to the "parking lot"-anchors are on right end if facing rock; rap to anchors between The Nose & Sundial Crack; rap to ground.

Protection

(stolen from the description of The Nose): "Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes."

The first pitch takes larger gear than you'd think. I used a yellow #2 Camalot. The party before us used a blue #3.

I was glad to have multiples of .3-.75 camalot C4's, C3's, & several TCU's. The gear in the goofy belay picture is pretty typical of what's needed through the whole climb (.5 C4, .4 C4, yellow TCU, 000 C3, 0C3).
The first pitch can vary widely in difficulty depending on the path you take. I would agree the 2nd pitch is a 5.8, although there is not a 5.8 move on it. It is just solid 5.6 - 5.7 with no let-up. Second pitch of the nose is far easier on the whole, with two sharp moves.

Unfortunately, I have been thwarted every time I have climbed this, so I have led the first two pitches at least 4 times, and never got to the namesake pitch. Aug 7, 2016
.
Asheville NC
.   Asheville NC
IMO the crux is the last 20ft of p2. Great pro in the .3 to .5 range as you get to the business. 7 days ago
Micah Rogers
Asheville, NC
  5.8-
Micah Rogers   Asheville, NC
  5.8-
We wedged a nut in real good on the second pitch Monday; somebody feel free to grab the booty if you're able to get it out... or I'll treat ya to a beer at the Hub if you feel like returning it! Sep 6, 2017
Rick Carpenter
Kenai, Alaska
 
Rick Carpenter   Kenai, Alaska
 
If your into eyebrow slab climbing this thing is better than the nose Nov 8, 2016
Some thoughts on gear:

The p3 "crack" eats gear in the cups to fist range. The third belay and p4 eat up small cams in the blue TCU to small blue/gray C4 range. I thought doubles in the red, yellow, (#3) blue camalot and triples in blue TCU through blue (0.3) C4 range would have made my life easier. Sep 20, 2015
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
 
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
 
A classic moderate eyebrow route. The rock quality was great; I was expecting it to be polished in places due to it being a super classic line, it wasn't. Pink and red tricams are really useful. Apr 10, 2014
b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
  5.8-
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
  5.8-
Honestly feel like this is a better climb than The Nose. Rationale for the comment if you're deciding to climb either the Nose or Sundial: the line on this climb really is so clean and classic. P1- climb straight under the bulge, move right and pull around the bulge. P2- look up and right at about a 45 degree angle to spot anchors... then climb beautiful 100' line direct to those anchors. P3- straight through a short but fantastic crack.

Beta
P1 - We took the direct line underneath the bulge which seems a touch more than 5.5.

p2 - not sure it's 5.8- (maybe a little easier) but it's fun, well protected and a great sequencing of foot work. Hard not to enjoy this pitch. Crux seems to be ~10' from anchors. Finger sized cams and tricams are important on this pitch.

p3 - crack is great fun. protects well with hand-sized gear. plenty of options.
NOTE on P3 belay: there is an obvious and very large eyebrow that will soak up multiple pieces at about 90'. We belayed there. if you are on 60m ropes, this potentially will leave you short of The Nose anchors by about 20' depending on how you send the 4th pitch. We should have belayed higher on P3, and there is a good eyebrow for doing this at about 130' on P3. The big obvious eyebrow will seduce you... don't give in. Climb at least 130' on P3 to make sure P4 ends at The Nose anchors.

p4 - had to stop about 20' below Nose anchors and setup natural belay. Cost us some time that you'll be able to save if you belay higher on P3. Ended up as a 5-pitch climb (granted the 20' P5 was a low-angle jog over to the anchors). It's still time wasted though.

Rappel is smooth and straightforward! 3 raps on double 60m ropes. Mar 12, 2014
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
first pitch feels 5.7 if you go straight up, 5.5 if you follow the path of least resistance (wander) Jan 7, 2014
Allan Ange
Sylva, NC
Allan Ange   Sylva, NC
Not saying this 5.8 or 5.7 but I am pretty sure it was rated before there were any climbing gyms in NC or anywhere for that matter Oct 25, 2013
munkeybog Sox
Columbia, SC
  5.7+
munkeybog Sox   Columbia, SC
  5.7+
^^^This is an instant classic of a comment^^^

5 star post! Oct 24, 2013
Trevor Shu
  5.7
Trevor Shu  
  5.7
This route's 5.7. Quit trying to compare real climbs to the blue route in the gym! Jul 5, 2013
Greg Berry  
 
The second pitch of the Sundial is my my favorite in the Nose area. If you stay on route it's several 5.8 moves one after another with great gear. Little mail slots all the way up the pitch. Clean moderate climbing on perfect granite with an awesome view. Apr 23, 2013
photocodo mcclung
Hendersonville, NC
 
photocodo mcclung   Hendersonville, NC
 
Led all four yesterday. second pitch has lots of pro. Great route. Apr 23, 2013
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Fantastic Route!! I would have to say my favorite out of the three classics on the nose wall! The Actual crack on the third pitch is so super fun! Enjoy!!!! Sep 8, 2012
photocodo mcclung
Hendersonville, NC
 
photocodo mcclung   Hendersonville, NC
 
what a great crack, flaring but protectable. Wish it went on for 400ft. top of 2nd pitch is further right than the selected climbs suggests. Sep 2, 2012
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
I agree with Joel's comments on the 2nd pitch. You trend pretty hard right to get to the bolts below the crack. I did not do this, and wound up having to make a straight horizontal traverse for about 40 feet. My follower was not thrilled. Apr 23, 2012
esha  
the amount of gear you find on the first pitch will highly depend on the path you take. anyway you slice it, there isn't a ton of good gear. and it probably is a little harder than 5.5. much like the nose, i think the first pitch might be a tad sandbagged. Dec 17, 2010
Joel Longo
Mooresville, NC
Joel Longo   Mooresville, NC
For anyone who might be climbing this for the first time, it may help to stand back far enough on the ground to see where the crack is in relation to the first belay. I neglected to do this and as a result completely missed it. The topo in the Lambert book makes it look as though pitch 2 is mostly straight up however I found out the hard way this is not the case. Mar 25, 2010
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I liked this much better than "The Nose", and I thought it was easier and significantly better protected (with the possible exception of the first pitch). Jul 27, 2009
I'd suggest taking a #3 camalot to protect the crux mantel move at the top of the 1st pitch. I found protection on P1 to be sparse after the first 20 feet. Dec 24, 2008
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
5.8
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
5.8
I just climbed this again last weekend. I really think this is every bit as good as the nose. The exposure is better. One note of beta, the wind hits this climb directly, it can really blow. Make sure in the spring and fall you dress right. I think the 2nd pitch is solid 5.8. May 2, 2007
Jethro Bodine-Clampett
Hixson, Tn
  5.8 PG13
Jethro Bodine-Clampett   Hixson, Tn
  5.8 PG13
Whatever the first pitch is rated in the book, it's 5.7 in my little world of ratings. I think the crack pitch (3rd) is actually easier. Jan 6, 2007