Avg: 3.1 from 179 votes
Routes in Nose Area
|Crescendo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Dum Dee Dum Dum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Hyperbola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Hyperbola Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Linear Progression T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Peregrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sensemilia Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Southern Crescent T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Sundial Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 430 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Bob Mitchell, Will Fulton - 1972|
|Page Views:||22,623 total, 169/month|
|Shared By:||reddirt on Nov 28, 2006|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionAlthough it's not a long sustained splitter crack, this is a really nice route, especially if the Nose is occupied. The crack actually runs for only ~20 ft on the 3rd pitch and is flaring, but protectable. The Lambert/Shull guide rates it 5.8, but I thought it was really mellow for the grade.
This description is meant to supplement the Lambert/Shull book. Ratings are from the book.
Start: Pretty much where the approach trail meets the rock. Relatively short approach.
P1: 5.5 80' Climb up and stay right of bulge, then move left to anchors. Either this pitch is underrated or the next pitch is overrated, as they didn't feel that different in difficulty.
P2. 5.8 100' At start, look up & right to anchors at top of 2nd pitch. Aim for those. Plenty of gear options.
P3: 5.7 120' If climbing on 50m ropes, climb more than 120' to ensure enough rope for last pitch. There are no fixed anchors for the end of this pitch.
P4: 5.6 150' Move up & left, aiming for the top of The Nose.
Descent: same raps as nose at the base of a distinct downward pointing flake. Using two 50m ropes rap to the "parking lot"-anchors are on right end if facing rock; rap to anchors between The Nose & Sundial Crack; rap to ground.
Protection(stolen from the description of The Nose): "Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes."
The first pitch takes larger gear than you'd think. I used a yellow #2 Camalot. The party before us used a blue #3.
I was glad to have multiples of .3-.75 camalot C4's, C3's, & several TCU's. The gear in the goofy belay picture is pretty typical of what's needed through the whole climb (.5 C4, .4 C4, yellow TCU, 000 C3, 0C3).