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Routes in Nose Area

Crescendo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dum Dee Dum Dum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hyperbola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Hyperbola Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Linear Progression T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peregrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sensemilia Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Southern Crescent T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sundial Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nathan Brown, Tom Caldwell
Page Views: 412 total · 49/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on May 10, 2017
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This is a stellar addition to the Nose Area. Some of the most challenging eye brow climbing at Looking Glass. Underclings, slopers, and thin slabbing make up the meat of the route. While much of the climbing is difficult, there are ample stances between each challenging section and clean falls if you pitch off. A great route to break into the grade.

Start in a gully 40' left of Hyperbola at a slab apron. Climb up the slab apron getting a key red tricam or offset in a pod. Continue straight up to the left side of the large flake feature shared with Hyperbola. At the top of the flake get a piece of gear and do some thin slabbing to the first bolt. After the first bolt, the wall steepens and gets technical. Get two finger sized cams in a row (.4 and blue metolius) to protect the tricky mantle and slabbing to the next set of bolts. The next bolt is the crux high-step undercling funkiness. Clip another bolt and work your way through the slopey goodness to reach a cool jug just where you want it. Get onto the jug and clip the next bolt. Move slightly left through the bulge clipping two more bolts on more slopers. A couple of thin to medium finger sized pieces protect the last little bit to the two-bolt anchor. (140' 11d/12a)

The second pitch blasts straight up off the anchor. Climb lower angled terrain through big rounded eye brows. Wander slightly right to get a 1 camalot placement in a narrow spot. Trend up and left through the moderate crux placing some thin pro. Romp to the top on big eyebrows just left of Hyperbola's second pitch. End at a nice slabby ledge with a nut and hex anchor. This pitch is okay, but not as classic as the first, worth doing once. (180' 5.8R)

Location

From the Nose, when the trail drops down to head to Hyperbola, start here at the base of the wall in the gully. The climb goes straight up the far left side of the big Hyperbola flake. The meat of the climbing is about 30' left of Hyperbola. A few grey colored bolts should be barely noticeable from the ground.

Protection

Doubles from thin to medium fingers, singles to 2 camalot for the second pitch. Quick draws for several bolts, a couple of slings, and many trad draws. Two ropes are required to rappel the route. 2 bolt anchor at P1 and fixed nut and hex for P2.

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