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Routes in Nose Area

Crescendo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dum Dee Dum Dum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hyperbola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Hyperbola Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Linear Progression T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peregrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sensemilia Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Southern Crescent T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sundial Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Whitney Huermann/ Peter White 90's
Page Views: 1,116 total, 13/month
Shared By: chummer on Aug 22, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Southern Crescent is for the eyebrow aficionado. Don't hop on this one until you've mastered Hyperbola, Chaos Out of Control, and any other "well protected" 5.10 at the Glass that you can think of. Not as consequential as the "Bomb Flake" but more serious than your average Glass route. Southern Crescent deserves traffic and has some fun and challenging climbing.

Location

This route is located left of Hyperbola and right of Sundial Crack. Locate the obvious steep bulge with a few bolts. Start up the mostly unprotected face (5.8+) to a bolt. Traverse left and pull the steep and off balance moves over the bulge. Belay.

The 2nd pitch has a significant runout off the belay (5.9+). Clip a couple bolts and pull the no hands stand up move.

Protection

Your typical Glass route. For sure small Tri-cams.

Maybe traverse to the Nose rap route.

Photos

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Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11c R
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11c R
1st pitch was great climbing, there are 3 placements between the first bolt to 60ish feet or so. I was surprised that it was a little dirty but its probably still early in the season and hasn't seen much traffic all winter. 2nd pitch didn't seem like it had any traffic as there was lots of dirt and lichen covering the eyebrows. Looks like most people only do the first pitch and then rappel the rings. Mar 24, 2015