All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > Nose Area

The Nose

Name: The Nose
Rating: 3.5

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Nose Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Crescendo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Dum Dee Dum Dum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Hyperbola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Hyperbola Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Linear Progression T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Peregrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sensemilia Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Southern Crescent T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sundial Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Wrench In My Pocket S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Steve Longenecker, Bob Watts, Bob Gillespie - 1966
Page Views:	57,657 total · 329/month
Shared By:	Chris Chaney on Oct 16, 2006
Admins:	Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Pitch 1: Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge. 5.5, 90'

Pitch 2: Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance. 5.8, 100'

Pitch 3: From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on. 5.8, 100'

Pitch 4: Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is significantly easier than the direct version.

This route was so much fun. The exposure is great and the rock is phenomenal.

Location

From the end of the approach trail, head a little to the left and look for the pale right-angling ramp on the second pitch. Begin below the lower end of it.

Protection

Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes. It seems to me like there were bolt anchors at every belay. We rappelled the route Peregrine which is the next route right from the Nose.