Type: Trad, 230 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Brad Shaver & Bob Gillespie FFA Bob Mitchel & Ron Cousins all in 1972
Page Views: 4,509 total · 31/month
Shared By: Brent Roaten on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

Easy runout to the base of an obvious crack. The crux is right off the slab and is protected by a bolt. The difficulties begin with a sharp off-hands crack which gives way to strenuous hands and fists to the top.
Addendum per guide book:
Skirt right of the bolt and back to the crack on p1 to make it 10a
P2: Climb a wide crack along an arch to a bolted anchors, 5.8 70 ft
P3: Pull over a 5.9 bulge and belay after 100ft
P4: scramble up easier ground and descend as for the nose

Location

Hike in as for the Nose and head downhill and north from the the base of the Nose. Walk past a large slab and find the obvious crack.

Protection

A single bolt at the crux. Wide range of passive gear. Multiples in the 2-3 camalot range. Rap the nose route.

Photos

There are two ways to do this route free. The original way, done by Bob Mitchell, went up to the base of the crack, did an undercling out right & then traversed back left to enter the crack above the first flared section of crack.

The other way is to climb the crack direct. This was first done by Henry Barber on his visit to Looking Glass.. Probably the way most folks do it these days. Apr 25, 2007
Jamming the flared section proved to be really difficult for me. Look forward to doing the whole climb next time I am there. The hand crack after the flare probably isn't much harder than 5.8. Oct 20, 2007
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
The first pitch was interesting, but the remainder of the route was not so good. I looked for quite awhile, but couldn't find any moves approaching 5.9 on the third pitch...just a bunch of low angle, very mossy slab climbing. Jul 27, 2009
ziggy  
Very fun climbing. Crux move was not to difficult, but definitely should be approached as a lay back instead of trying to jam. I found the move getting into the actual hand crack above the crux to be more difficult. Nov 30, 2009
Dave T
Charlotte
Dave T   Charlotte
Fun Route and very safe (not PG-13) Apr 20, 2010
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.10+
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
  5.10+
Burly crux on this one. I thought the hardest part was getting into the finishing crack. Potentially a long fall from here if you don't place any gear above the bolt. You could get a hand sized piece in the only good jam between the two cracks... not worth it. So make sure you're belayer is awake. Not dangerous, just heads up.

Doing the traverse bypasses the first hard move, but not really the second. You'll have to do a solid 5.10 section either way unless your 6'4''. Oct 7, 2011
Phoffmann  
 
This route is an unheralded classic, no matter how many pitches you do. Mike Anderson was clearly off route on the third pitch. Two stars Mike? Really? After the bolt on P1 you can sink a bomber #1 or 2 and still have room for your hands. This might be the best splitter hand crack in NC. Jun 1, 2012
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Still the biggest sandbag on LG at 10c or just extremely condition/height dependent. I would say the best hand crack on that cliff is P2 of the Odyssey and best in the state would have to go to something at GT. Tried it again, probably sub-optimal conditions, but getting into the easy crack to the anchor was difficult. If you like your ankles, you will place #1 after the bolt before getting into the easy crack as it doesn't interfere with the highest jam. No fancy belaying will keep you off the slab if you fall that high above the bolt. Jul 18, 2012
munkeybog Sox
Columbia, SC
  5.10c PG13
munkeybog Sox   Columbia, SC
  5.10c PG13
I cannot imagine laying back this beast.
I have long fingers I admit. So I can cup hands-jam that flaring pod above the bolt and then I straight jam through the second crux to get to the good jams above. Placing gear is the tricky bit (see above comments)

I seriously feel that I would drop a nut (not the aluminum variety) trying to lieback.

Finesse straight in Jams. Think about it.

(I'm 5'11" with a decent reach) Oct 25, 2013
Andrew Hancox
Greenville
  5.10c
Andrew Hancox   Greenville
  5.10c
I did a little of both this morning. I used a right hand fist jam (palm facing into the crack) at the first flarred poddish part of crack to gain a high right foot on the chalky chuck of rock about 2 feet below the bolt. I found that I had to tinker with the fingers on the fist jam to get the best purchase. Used the fist jam and high right foot to pull up and lay back with the left hand (very insecure layback) in more of a gaston fashion then a true lay back. I then fired in a hand jam up maybe a foot that was really secure. From there on the route is pretty secure. The second reachy section just above the crux was a little desperate but not near as confusing as the crux. I really enjoyed the hand jams from then on and can't wait to do the second pitch of perfect hand jams!! Sorry if I'm spraying too much. Hope this helps. Sep 17, 2015
This route is awesome. I think 10c is accurate for the boulder problem sequence by the bolt. Took me several tries, but finally figured out a sequence for taking the crack on direct. Once you pull the lieback, slot a hand jam and then there's a bomber #3 placement that still allows you room to jam. Definitely not PG-13.

Second pitch was also awesome. Gritty jams made me wish I'd made a pair of tape gloves. We took it up for a third pitch to a gear belay, then finished with a rope stretcher traverse to the parking lot. I'd say definitely do the first two pitches if you're getting on this.

Like every other crack in NC, "I wish it was longer..." Oct 13, 2016
Rick Carpenter
Marion, NC
  5.10c
Rick Carpenter   Marion, NC
  5.10c
Rad, either jam or lay it back. Fantastic movement on this one. Not PG13 on the first pitch at least. Nov 7, 2016