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Routes in Sun Wall

Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Predator T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
GPS: 35.295, -82.788 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,652 total · 267/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009 with updates
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

Description

If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.

Getting There

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sun Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Legged Snake
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest…
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nick Danger
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pat Ewing
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ruby Tuesday
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scotty Pippen
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Aerospace Cadet
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Irish Jig
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Out To Lunch
Trad 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
The Odyssey
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Le Pump
Trad, Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Labia
Trad 4 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Predator
Trad, Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Two Legged Snake
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Titties & Beer (aka "World…
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Nick Danger
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Pat Ewing
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Ruby Tuesday
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Scotty Pippen
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Aerospace Cadet
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Irish Jig
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Out To Lunch
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
The Odyssey
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad 4 pitches
Le Pump
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
Labia
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 4 pitches
Predator
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid…
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sun Wall »

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