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Sun Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Sun Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Mainline Express T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Predator T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Prey T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Psychedelic Delusions of The Digital Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
	Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Titties and Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Way Rad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Description

If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.

Getting There

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sun Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 6 ● Two Legged Snake Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 96 ● Titties and Beer (aka "World's… Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 13 ● Nick Danger Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 3 ● Ruby Tuesday Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 7 ● Scotty Pippen Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 4 ● Aerospace Cadet Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 3 ● Irish Jig Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 13 ● Out To Lunch Trad 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c 22 ● The Odyssey Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R 4 ● The Legendary Nuclear Bomb Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 10 ● Le Pump Trad, Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 3 ● Labia Trad 4 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 4 ● Predator Trad, Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 7 ● The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test Trad, Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 3 ● Prey Trad 4 pitches