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Sun Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Sun Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Bouffant Curl T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Le Crimp T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Mainline Express T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Predator T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Prey T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Psychedelic Delusions of The Digital Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13
	Psychedelic Delusions of The Digital Man (Free) T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Titties and Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Toxic Wasteland T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Way Rad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.

Getting There

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.

25 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sun Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 6 ● Two Legged Snake Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 123 ● Titties and Beer (aka "World's… Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 14 ● Nick Danger Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 5 ● Pat Ewing Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 7 ● Scotty Pippen Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 5 ● Aerospace Cadet Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 4 ● Irish Jig Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 15 ● Out To Lunch Trad 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 35 ● The Odyssey Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 10 ● Le Pump Trad, Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R 6 ● The Legendary Nuclear Bomb Trad 4 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 4 ● Predator Trad, Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 12 ● The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test Trad, Sport