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GPS: 35.30308, -82.79529
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 68,654 total · 389/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

Description Suggest change

If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.

Getting There Suggest change

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: Sun Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sun Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Two Legged Snake
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 111
Titties and Beer (aka "World's…
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Nick Danger
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Pat Ewing
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Scotty Pippen
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Aerospace Cadet
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Irish Jig
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 14
Out To Lunch
Trad 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 33
The Odyssey
Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 10
Le Pump
Trad, Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 5
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb
Trad 4 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Predator
Trad, Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Two Legged Snake
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Titties and Beer (aka "Wor…
 111
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Nick Danger
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Pat Ewing
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Scotty Pippen
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Aerospace Cadet
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Irish Jig
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Out To Lunch
 14
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
The Odyssey
 33
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Le Pump
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb
 5
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad 4 pitches
Predator
 4
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid…
 8
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sun Wall »

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