Mainline Express
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 35.30308, -82.79529 |
| FA: | Harrison Shull & Bryan Haslam |
| Page Views: | 740 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Dylan Valvo on Jun 4, 2021 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
This is a neat route with challenging cruxes that I feel needed to be cleared up. While it was given 5.11+ my partner and I disagree and find it to be on par or harder than other LGR 12s.
Pitch 1 climb up the grey slab to where the wall steepens and begins to overhang. Begin to route find through the bulges aiming for the big jug ear. After that one more tricky section puts you on a great belay ledge where you’ll build an anchor 5.11
Pitch 2 Climb right off the belay and into a boulder problem with a bolt. Continue up the overhanging face to the left with another tricky crux. After this climb up and make a gear belay at a sloping stance 5.12
Pitch 3 Climb up shallow crack into the groove bouncing around and finding pro with short runs. Locate the double bolt belay under the overhanging bulge 5.10
Pitch 4 Sneak up to the overhang and make sure to take time getting bomber pro as this boulder problem is much harder than it appears as well as its “given” grade. Crank over the bulge with the crack on slopers and head up to the tree line. Build belay off left and up of tree island if you want a bonus pitch. This pitch was listed as 11b in guidebooks. On rappel we determined you could probably climb the right side of the roof at an easier grade but going straight up from the belay through the roof is solid. I felt it was harder than the actual crux pitch. 5.11+
Pitch 5 this wasn’t an original pitch but it made sense to keep climbing.... climb up to eyebrows on the right and crank through the face on poor holds with pro well below you or continue right and you can traverse around and over this section. Climb up the water groove above. 5.11
2 raps off trees back to the bolted anchor. From bolted anchor rap “to the ground”. Chances are if you made it up the route you’ve got it together but two 60s will not put you in walking territory. Down climb 20’ of slab to the apron.



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