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Routes in Sun Wall

Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Predator T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: FA Jeff Burton, Mark Stroud, Bill Tennent (85), FFA Douglas Swords
Page Views: 5,811 total, 48/month
Shared By: chummer on Jan 14, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Best route name ever. This is a beautiful piece of stone and one of the coolest routes in North Carolina. This climb requires a nice mix of power, finesse, and a bit of boldness. MUCH harder to lead than toprope, fall above the crux and its pretty much a mandatory 20 footer with slab smacking potential. The top eases off technically but pro is scant and thin.

Location

Located on the Sun Wall, down and right from the Nose area, this climb is the obvious arching right facing corner. NOTE: This is the first pitch of Psychedelic Delusions of the Digital Man done free.

Protection

Lots of RP's, small tcu's up to .75 camalot

Photos

Karsten Delap
North Carolina
Karsten Delap   North Carolina
This route is amazing! A project for me for sure! Mar 3, 2017
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
 
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
 
this is one route that it would be nice to keep the semantics of who did what and in what style out of the picture. Its such a good climb that tainting it with these things is a disservice to all who send. Keep the politics out...we have enough of it in NC Apr 3, 2014
chummer
 
chummer  
 
Great history. Thanks for shedding some light on the history of this climb. Which 2 bolts were placed later? I'm guessing maybe the first and last? Sep 14, 2012
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
A few parties had done the route before Doug Swords redpointed it. There was some debate about whether preplacing the draws on the bolts constituted pre placement of gear. If it does, then the proper FFA belongs to Doug since he placed all gear (including quickdraws) on lead. Jul 23, 2012
A beautiful Sunday morning and here I am looking around on the internet and found these postings. This is my first post on a forum so I hope to get it right.

Jeep's info on our style while working on the acid test is incorrect. We did not aid, tr or preplace gear but worked it the proper way by walking to the base and started climbing. We were on a week long trip to NC and dedicated two days of work to the route, my best effort was on the second day when I got through the crux and near the top, bone headed an easy move and peeled off. So no, me or Mike did not ring the bell but were happy enough with it and moved on to other climbing. As Jeep stated, when we were on the route only two bolts were on it. The gear in between is plenty adequate if one is accustom to placeing small pro on steep rock.

The word I got was that Jeep and Whitney placed the extra bolts during their stay on the route. Did my info come from the same source as Jeep's?

This route is mega classic and deserves a proper send, I know the talent exists in NC to do the deed. While you are at it, remove all but the original two bolts and return it to a sporting adventure. Jul 22, 2012
since there has been an increase in interest in this route lately i guess i should chime in. eddie didn't do the first free ascent and neither did i. he aided it, top roped it, fixed the gear and then led it. i never worked it from the top down and after many tries led it but never without falling off. the best i did was to pull the rope after falling and then lead through clean. i managed that several times. the true free ascent belongs to someone else and they should claim it. the route is world class. i do want to make 1 additional point: when eddie and i were working it there were only 2 bolts and at least in my case, no other fixed gear. be strong young people. let the rock teach you how. Mar 7, 2012
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
For us mere mortals it is a dandy aid route too. Aug 4, 2008
chummer
 
chummer  
 
I would love to learn more about the history of this climb. I spent A LOT of time working on this thing. I flashed it on toprope first try but it took me another couple of years to finally lead it free and even then with some fixed gear at the crux.

I doubt it has ever been onsighted but who knows. Would love to hear more stories. I used to take 20+ footers on the first bolt that was sticking halfway out of the rock. Yikes! This is one of my favorite climbs ever. Jan 14, 2008