Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Sun Wall
|
Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Bouffant Curl T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Le Crimp T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
|
|
Mainline Express T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Predator T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Prey T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Psychedelic Delusions of The Digital Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 |
|
|
Psychedelic Delusions of The Digital Man (Free) T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Titties and Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Toxic Wasteland T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
|
|
Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Way Rad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bob Mitchell, Art Williams - 1972 FFA: Jeep Gaskin, Don Hunley - 1977 |
| Page Views: | 7,453 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Anderson on Aug 18, 2009 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This route is an Odyssey, and seems right on par for what a Sun Wall route should be. This is probably one of the easier routes on this wall to start out on.
P1: The Shull/Lambert topo shows a gradual rightward rising traverse to get to the crack. Don't do this. From the rack-up spot below Prey traverse straight right on a 3rd class slab until you are directly below the crack, then go straight up on eyebrows. You'll have to make a couple committing slab moves with gear at your feet, but you shouldn't hit the slab if you fall. If it seems dangerous, you're in the wrong spot.
P2: Climb the obvious and well protected crack. It takes lots of hand sized pieces. When the crack ends, exit to the right (a little spicey) to a bolted belay on a sloping ramp.
P3: Traverse left back to the crack from the belay. Do a hard high-step/layback to get back in the crack (harder for short folks)...this was a little scary with gear at your feet and a slab below. There are 2 hammered hexes in the crack you can use for pro once established in the crack. Clip a bolt then traverse left into the water groove. This is the crux if you're tall, I thought the move right at the start of the pitch (liebacking up to the crack) was harder than this section. Once in the water groove, climb up and then to the right to belay in an obvious scoop.
P4: Climb easy eyebrows on the right until the rope runs out. The topo calls this "5.9", but it's much easier. Maybe 5.6 or 5.7.
Rap down Prey with 2 ropes. At the top, look for two bolts to the left of the Odyssey near two dead trees. I can't remember if it was 2 or 3 raps...it seems like 2, but I could be wrong.
P1: The Shull/Lambert topo shows a gradual rightward rising traverse to get to the crack. Don't do this. From the rack-up spot below Prey traverse straight right on a 3rd class slab until you are directly below the crack, then go straight up on eyebrows. You'll have to make a couple committing slab moves with gear at your feet, but you shouldn't hit the slab if you fall. If it seems dangerous, you're in the wrong spot.
P2: Climb the obvious and well protected crack. It takes lots of hand sized pieces. When the crack ends, exit to the right (a little spicey) to a bolted belay on a sloping ramp.
P3: Traverse left back to the crack from the belay. Do a hard high-step/layback to get back in the crack (harder for short folks)...this was a little scary with gear at your feet and a slab below. There are 2 hammered hexes in the crack you can use for pro once established in the crack. Clip a bolt then traverse left into the water groove. This is the crux if you're tall, I thought the move right at the start of the pitch (liebacking up to the crack) was harder than this section. Once in the water groove, climb up and then to the right to belay in an obvious scoop.
P4: Climb easy eyebrows on the right until the rope runs out. The topo calls this "5.9", but it's much easier. Maybe 5.6 or 5.7.
Rap down Prey with 2 ropes. At the top, look for two bolts to the left of the Odyssey near two dead trees. I can't remember if it was 2 or 3 raps...it seems like 2, but I could be wrong.
Location
On the Sun Wall. Take the Sun Wall trail, branching left off of the Nose trail at the appropriate time. The trail will hit the wall at a large apron, go left through a tree tunnel up to a nice little ledge under the "raven's roost" that the hard route "Prey" climbs over. This is a nice spot to rack up, but we saw a timber rattler here once, and another large snake. Take note of where Prey is (locate a line of bolts) then Odyssey is the second water streak to the right with a long crack starting about 50' up.
8 Comments