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Routes in Sun Wall

Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Predator T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prey T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nathan Brown, Ben Kegan
Page Views: 382 total · 9/month
Shared By: nbrown on Feb 23, 2015
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is a very cool line and a must do if you're into steep brows and good rock! With the addition of 2 key bolt placements (placed several years after the FA) it is safer but still requires a keen eye for protecting eyebrows.
P-1
Start on Nick Danger. Climb to the bolt (where the pin used to be), but instead of moving left, step up and right to horizontal which takes a #1 tcu. Move directly right here onto the eyebrow laced face (don't climb the groove, which is harder). Continue up the moderate face (~10'right of groove) getting lots of gear (some shallow) to a bolt below the bulge. Climb straight up to a # .75 camalot in a jug/brow. Crank the deadpoint-type move and continue on steep jugs, passing a #1 tcu and another bolt to the ledge. Belay on gear. 5.10++

P-2
Pull a mini bulge via small flake a little to the left. Continue up the center of the face to end with all the other lines at the large ledge with the Irish Jig rap anchors. ~ 5.8

Location

Starts on Nick Danger. Climbs the brow-laced wall between Nick Danger and Ruby Tuesday.

Protection

Double in cams from #1 tcu to #0.75 camelot, with perhaps a 3rd #1 tcu. 2 bolts.

Photos

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