Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nathan Brown, Ben Kegan
Page Views: 430 total · 9/month
Shared By: nbrown on Feb 23, 2015
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This is a very cool line and a must do if you're into steep brows and good rock! With the addition of 2 key bolt placements (placed several years after the FA) it is safer but still requires a keen eye for protecting eyebrows.
P-1
Start on Nick Danger. Climb to the bolt (where the pin used to be), but instead of moving left, step up and right to horizontal which takes a #1 tcu. Move directly right here onto the eyebrow laced face (don't climb the groove, which is harder). Continue up the moderate face (~10'right of groove) getting lots of gear (some shallow) to a bolt below the bulge. Climb straight up to a # .75 camalot in a jug/brow. Crank the deadpoint-type move and continue on steep jugs, passing a #1 tcu and another bolt to the ledge. Belay on gear. 5.10++

P-2
Pull a mini bulge via small flake a little to the left. Continue up the center of the face to end with all the other lines at the large ledge with the Irish Jig rap anchors. ~ 5.8

Location

Starts on Nick Danger. Climbs the brow-laced wall between Nick Danger and Ruby Tuesday.

Protection

Double in cams from #1 tcu to #0.75 camelot, with perhaps a 3rd #1 tcu. 2 bolts.

Photos

chummer
 
chummer  
 
Pretty standard sun wall style climb. Nice headwall that seemed pretty easy but had enjoyable jug hauling. I thought the crux was the move above the 1st bolt. After that eased off a lot. Offsets could be helpful. A bolted belay at the top of the 1st pitch would be nice. Oct 22, 2018