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Routes in Sun Wall

Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Predator T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bob Rotert and Jeep Gaskin - 1982
Page Views: 1,219 total, 13/month
Shared By: Bob Rotert on Jan 6, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This route shares the first pitch with Aerospace Cadet. If I recall correctly it was done in 81/82 . It starts about 50 feet left of Out to Lunch.

Climb up a light-colored streak of rock. Mantel up and right over a bulge to a gear belay. Rating was around 9+.

Second pitch traverses up and left across orange rock to a bolt, backed up with natural gear for a bely below a multi-tiered overhanging water groove. Which is left of the Aerospace water groove. Rating was about 10-.

Third pitch goes straight up the overhanging tiered water groove which is juggy initially. However getting over the lip into the water groove above is cruxy. It then climbs about 50 feet on up the water groove to a natural belay. Last pitch finishes up easy ground to the top.

Location

On the Sun Wall left of Out to Lunch

Protection

Standard Looking Glass Trad rack. Cams and Stainless Steel Testicles...

Photos

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